Looking for Valve Education...

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  • VTLO910
    Ballin' since early '90s..
    • Jan 2008
    • 215

    #1

    Looking for Valve Education...

    So there is the:

    Level 7
    Level 10
    X-Valve
    Reverse Valves
    Etc...

    I have a AutoMag Classic and have been trying to educate myself from reading other post...

    Which ones are compatible/not compatible with my marker?

    What does a reverse valve do that others wont...?

    If I understand correctly, an X-Valve already comes with a level 10 correct...? and is made of aluminum...?



    and, what can I do to reduce freezing...? I have a expansion chamber set up on my mag and am not looking to do a remote set up as of now...

    I know Nitrogen should help but I'm not yet ready to shell out the cash for a tank quite yet...

    Thanks to anyone who responds... I HAVE USED THE SEARCH FUNCTION, FYI, just not finding what I'm looking for yet...

  • Dawg047
    Registered User

    • Oct 2003
    • 821

    #2
    Level 7 is just your standard bolt setup that comes on your Classic, Minimag, and Micromag valves. All of these valves are the same stainless steel valves except for differences in the laser engraving of the names, serial numbers, and warranty stars. The warranty stars are the stars on the side of the valve above the serial number. On classics, there is 1 one, minimags there are 4, and on micromags some are 3 stars. These stars simply represent the number of times you can send a valve in for free repair of all its soft parts (o-rings ect..) Older valves are sometimes pre-dated stars which have no stars and these were made before the star program. These valves are all compatible. A reverse valve is a valve which is just simply a valve with an air inlet on the left side instead of the right (the air fitting coming out the side of the valve is on the left). There is no difference other than that in which I know of. It is also compatible unless you have a specific air routing way on your setup like a hardline or something.

    Retro Valves: Retro Valves or RT valves and Emag and RT Pro valves are simply the same concept as a classic valve but with a aluminum back half which looks differently and a different on/off assembly. These valves recharge faster and kick back the trigger faster allowing higher rates of fire. All RT valves should be compatible with your setup but sears and such might have to be changed(not sure). Also not sure about the RT valves in the original RT's

    NOTE: RT VALVES AND X VALVES CAN NOT RUN OFF OF C02

    X valves: These are simply an all aluminum version (lighter) of the RT valve with level 10 installed. Some X valves have RT X on them but this was a limited run I believe. Xvalves come in a variety of colors since they are aluminum.

    Level 10: Level 10 sometimes referred to as level X is a different kind of bolt system which involves the bolt moving differently in different stages. This is to reduce or eliminate ball breakage or chopping in the breach. It can easily be identified by a longer stem coming out the back of the bolt petruding farther into the front of the valve assembly and sometimes a longer spring. The X valves come with this preinstalled but level 10 can be installed on most any valve including the classic stainless steel valves.

    ULT: This stands for Ultralite Trigger. This is a kit which can be installed on xvalves and Emag valves (Retro valves also I believe) to lighten the trigger pull considerably. It is not recommended at all for an actual Emag or Xmag marker but will work on mechanical markers with the valves. It is als not recommended on classic stainless steel valves but does work.


    Your mag. Your mag should be compatible with all valves out there unless you have a "Classic RT rail". If you want to upgrade to an RT valve, remember, no CO2. If you go with a level 10 kit, it may require some tuning but it is a good choice.

    As far as your CO2 problem. An expansion chamber is a good start. Try longer hoses from your asa to your expansion chamber and from your expansion chamber to you valve. On your hose from the expansion chamber to the valve, try a longer one which loops over your feed to make an arch. Also, ask your paintball supplier about an anti-siphon tube in your tank to keep liquid from going into the gun. Other than that, I hope this post helped.
    Last edited by Dawg047; 01-20-2008, 01:26 PM.

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