current and former Karnivor owners... help

[siloseven]

I have been at AO a ling time and always shot mags, so this is the only site I really know and trust, and I figure someone might know something or someone that can give me a hand, I figure this is the best place to start my search.

I baught a Karnivor over the weekend for a steal, brand new, problem is, no manual and the warrent is kinda short I think, if still in effect.
The gun has never shot paint but has been dry fired a bit, I personally shot about 1000psi one day, so it works. But the gun has been on the wall so long I need to dust it with a wet spunge.
I have NO IDEA what to do with an autococker, let along an E-cocker, this is also my first "highend" electronic marker.

So... what to I do?

I was pushing buttons last night and found how to get the the menu's and stuff, I have no clue on lubeing, maitnance, timing, dwell, pretty much everything.

I am gonna google a bit, but the only place I have internet is at work, so i can't do it all the time. So can anyone let me know of some cocker websites and how too"s?

[JAMRENS]

i know that i am not supose to link you to another website but this is all you need to know about e cockers http://www.moodypaintball.com/zen/in...2f08abf55fdcf6

[siloseven]

i know that i am not supose to link you to another website but this is all you need to know about e cockers http://www.moodypaintball.com/zen/in...2f08abf55fdcf6

Thanks Jamrens.

[dixieoutfitter94]

the main thing is to not mess with them; cockers are great markers as long as you leave them alone when they are working.

[hansolo8221]

the main thing is to not mess with them; cockers are great markers as long as you leave them alone when they are working.

Exactly what he said.

Sorry I can't help you much, I am a serious cocker user but have never used a Karnivor.

I don't know what to tell you about a manual. WGP's site pretty much sucks, and hasn't been updated in years. You might call them (their number is on the website) and see if they can send you one. You might also try the Planet Eclipse website; I know they have Eblade manuals for download there. I am not totaly sure, but I believe that it is a type of E2 frame on the Karnivor, so looking through the E2 manual should give you some general info on the functionality of the frame.

You might also go over to PBNation. If you go down the list to the "Cocker" forum, there is an Electronic Cocker subforum. That is usually where I hang out. There are lots of very knowledgeable and helpful people over there. There is a WGP specific forum as well, but people in the Electronic Cocker forum usually have a bit broader range of info.

[p8ntbal4me]

Yeah, talk to Nathan from Moody Paintball Products.

He knows cockers and will not steer you wrong.

I have my cocker in his hands right now (Micro cocker with an E1 on it) and it will be a whole new machine when I get it back.

~ P8nt

[siloseven]

Thankya guys, I have been checking out the moody site and getting aquainted, but i think i am down to the point of trial and error, so hopefully I don't kill it.

[secretweaponevan]

the main thing is to not mess with them; cockers are great markers as long as you leave them alone when they are working.

Exactly what he said.

Remove barrel.

3 drops of oil into the asa.

Dry fire 30 shots.

Replace barrel.

Play paintball.

<Apone>Nobody touch nothin'</Apone>

[siloseven]

i just don't know what was fiddled with in its shelf life.

but a couple silly questions:
Do I need to lube the bolt orings? its a dyrln(spl) bolt, but it has orings.
To turn the lpr up is it a right screw or left screw?
Can I mess anythign up by screwing the grip panels in too tight? (think its an old shocker thing, but just wanna make sure)
What is the red button under the "e-3way" on the front block?
should I tinker with my adjustable tank? I have it set to 800psi output, should I lower it any?

Thanks again guys.

[hansolo8221]

i just don't know what was fiddled with in its shelf life.

but a couple silly questions:
Do I need to lube the bolt orings? its a dyrln(spl) bolt, but it has orings.
To turn the lpr up is it a right screw or left screw?
Can I mess anythign up by screwing the grip panels in too tight? (think its an old shocker thing, but just wanna make sure)
What is the red button under the "e-3way" on the front block?
should I tinker with my adjustable tank? I have it set to 800psi output, should I lower it any?

Thanks again guys.

The bolt orings shouldn't need lubricating. Depending on what you put on them, it would probably end up gumming up in the upper tube and making the bolt move sluggishly. If the orings make the bolt fit very tight in the tube, you could even remove them, and it should still operate fine, many cocker bolts are made with no orings at all.

To increase the LPR pressure, it should be screwed right/clockwise/inward toward the gun. If you want to find the best LPR pressure for your gun, do this:
--1.Start with the marker off and de-gassed. 2. Unscrew the LPR all the way out (left/counterclockwise). 3.Turn the frame on and put it on "Classic" mode (again, I have not used a Karnivor, but it should have this firing mode), this will make it function like a mechanical cocker, i.e. when you hold down the trigger, the backblock will stay back until the trigger is released. 4. Gas up the marker. 5. Hold down the trigger. 6. Slowly increase the LPR pressure until the backblock is fully extended back, then give it another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. 7. Cycle the marker a few times to make sure it is re-cocking reliably. This method should find you the lowest possible LPR pressure for your cocker.

I don't think you will damage anything inside the frame, but you don't want to crack your grip panels, either. Don't overdo it.

What you call an e-3way is more technically known as a "solenoid valve", and when used on a cocker will often be referred to as the "cocking solenoid" (sometimes just noid for short). There is another solenoid in an e-cocker frame, not a valve, but one that fires a pin to trip the sear. This would be referred to as the "sear noid". Note, sometimes you will see the cocking noid referred to as 3, 4, or 5 way noid, it all means the same thing. Anyway, the red button on it is not something you should have to worry about, I have no idea what it even does.

Leave your tank output high. There is a secondary reg on the gun to take the pressure down to the proper level, adjust that one if you need. Leaving the tank reg high will make more air available to the 2nd reg, which means higher airflow during high rates of fire.

[siloseven]

What you call an e-3way is more technically known as a "solenoid valve", and when used on a cocker will often be referred to as the "cocking solenoid" (sometimes just noid for short). There is another solenoid in an e-cocker frame, not a valve, but one that fires a pin to trip the sear. This would be referred to as the "sear noid". Note, sometimes you will see the cocking noid referred to as 3, 4, or 5 way noid, it all means the same thing. Anyway, the red button on it is not something you should have to worry about, I have no idea what it even does.

Funny you mention that, I got home last night and made mention of this thred to my GF and she asked about what I asked, and told her about the little red button - she suggested it is the selfdestruct button, I said well shoot, I already pressed it.

but cool I thnk ya Hansolo.

[JAMRENS]

the red button is a purge hit it and the marker will shoot

[phizz]

Great place for info as there are a bunch of us mag owners that own cockers, and so far you have been given great tips I agree with moodypaintball as a great place to start...

Just to prove mag owners own cockers here are some pics I have been afraid to even show on here.



me again just a lot colder day -10 celcius I think


And yes I do fire a mag too..



Anyways good luck with the karni. I myself just bought a used one the other day for $300 and I am waiting for it in the mail. My mini orracle is great rain snow, or shine, nice and reliable and again like everyone else says DONT MESS WITH IT!!!

Enjoy your Karni!

[93civiccpe]

Exactly what he said.

Remove barrel.

3 drops of oil into the asa.

Dry fire 30 shots.

Replace barrel.

Play paintball.

<Apone>Nobody touch nothin'</Apone>

^^ PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do NOT do the above. Since you have an electro cocker, putting drops of oil in the ASA is NOT a great idea. Seeing as how you have an electronic 5-way, and those 5-way solenoids tend to gunk up enough as it is, it is not a good idea to lube it this way. If it were a mechanical autococker, then the above is correct, but you do not want to put lube through your electro 5-way like that or more than likely you are going to have a good bit of problems.

I worked for many years as a tech at the local shop. There are some really good resources out there for setting up the front pneumatics on an autococker. Once they are set, leave them alone. If they are already set up good, leave them alone. As for the electronic manual, you probably have the worrgrip frame on there (which sadly enough is not too similar to an e2 frame). If you search it out I believe several places have that manual in a .pdf form that you can download. As for setting up the front pneumatics, there was a video of a guy showing how to do it on www.cockertech.com for the longest time. I don't know if that site is still up as I can't check it from where I'm at now. If you have any specific questions, please feel free to pm me.