What is this?

[RandomPaintSpray3454]

Hey, I'm getting this mag soon, as I've always wanted one, and I was just wondering if the owner is correct.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=2394985

He says it is a 68 Custom with Level 7 bolt. I'm most interested in the valve type. If you see any external upgrades please inform me.. I have no clue what I'm doing in the automag world, but I'm going to learn from a field owner that pretty much worships mags.



I'm going to keep it mech, and this will be my woodsball gun. I'd like to know if I can do the following-

But the ULT kit for reduced trigger pull,
But the level 10 kit in it
possibly a new valve down the road..

Thanks

[BigTrucker]

I'm going to keep it mech, and this will be my woodsball gun. I'd like to know if I can do the following-

But the ULT kit for reduced trigger pull,
But the level 10 kit in it
possibly a new valve down the road..

Thanks

A ULT kitt will not work in a Classic valve I am not sure why but i know first had that it will not. You can install a level 10 bolt but for the most part if you get a new bolt its $95 and for what he is asking you're better off getting a new classic with a level 10 already in it

[questionful]

It works on some valves, it doesn't on others. I've heard people tell of experiences either way.

[secretweaponevan]

The ULT kit is not recommended for classic valves as it makes the marker much more prone to short-stroking (ball will just drop out of the end of the barrel).

Any of the RT valves will fit right in to your classic body/rail, with the exception of the RT classic valve which does not have an input on the side of the tank.

I think that mag @$170 is over-priced.

My $0.02

[IDriveBug]

I think that mag @$170 is over-priced.

My $0.02

I concur, even at the price dropped $160, it is still seems over priced for a spray painted standard feed classic mag that is missing parts that it needs to work i.e. air lines, fittings and adapter.

The ULT will probably not work on that mag, as they in most cases don't work right on classic valves.

Level 10 bolt kit is a worth while investment, but for most woods ball players, you will never need it as your rate of fire doesnt generally get to the point that you end up with a lot of ball chops. Though it wouldnt hurt to upgrade, you never know.

The classic valve is well, the classic valve, I am not aware of any real (proven, and believe me we have tried) mods or upgrades you can do other than tradeing the whole kit for a RT or X valve assembly. The regulator half on the other hand has been offered modded with varous numbers of holed most commonly 8, or as an upgraded version from dozens of vendors like the ANS Phase 2 and Labs Hurricane

[RandomPaintSpray3454]

I originallly planned to trade my promaster for it.. The thing shoots great, I just really want a mag. Also, I'm really a speedballer, but for when I do play woodsball(I ref at a woodsball park) I want something I don't have to put batteries in every time I play.

[AGDlover]

Dont buy it its wayyyyy over priced find a working one on here thats much cleaner and works for much cheeper. The ULT + classic valve debate.... you CAN get the ULT into a classic and to work...however... you WILL have to deal with short strokeing issues and will probly want a trigger with set screws. The ULT was not recomended to have full usitlity in the classic valve. Xvalve + ULT and your set. Sry to say but that gun isnt worth the money.

[RandomPaintSpray3454]

Well, I've decided to not trade him. I've found a deal for 2 automags, for my promaster.. I will get you guys specs and pics before makikng things final, as I pretty much know nothing about mags.

[babyface]

o thank god, that was prob. the ugliest mag ive ever seen.

[Ruler_Mark]

good call on not buying. keep us posted

[djellum]

Hoppers

I'd run a checklist before you buy, Mags can do about anything you want but you have to know what to look for. I would recommend a lvl10 for any and all situations, any chop protection is worth its weight in gold.

1) what is the air source - CO2 or Compressed (do yourself a favor and go compressed if possible)

2) What valve do you want?

There are differences in how the valves perform so see which one has what you like - reactive trigger, CO2 compatible, low weight, cost, etc. theres some good posts on the differences here.

3) What type of barrels do you want to use? ULE bodies are autococker threaded and the others have the twistlock barrels. If you already have AC threaded barrels for other markers or want to get a real nice barrel for your mag, i'd look into the ULE. I have a scepter kit that works for my PM and the Mag, its convenient and means the ULE paid for itself since i didnt have to buy a TL barrel.

If you just want a solid woodsball gun, then just about anything will do. concentrate on getting a well maintained valve, a compressed air system, and a level 10 bolt

[noleafclover]

i must say, that is one hideous mag! i suggest looking through the B/S/T on here for a mag instead of that over-priced golden clunker