sticky sear

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  • zeroex
    Registered User
    • Jan 2007
    • 55

    #1

    sticky sear

    yea, just as the title says, the mag i'm working on has a sticky sear. not too sure on how to fix it; tried lubing it but that didnt really work. i'm thinking it might be due to the way the sear is installed on the rail, via an axle-like screw so the sear is attached to the rail itself with a smooth screw in the middle, but i'm not sure. the main problem is that the sear pin simply gets stuck and wont pop out to allow firing. any suggestions? i'm aiming to not have to sand anything down, but if it has to be done, it will be. thanks!
  • secretweaponevan
    Only HALF Polish!
    • Sep 2007
    • 1132

    #2
    Are you sure it isn't bolt stick?

    What valve/body/rail/trigger frame are you running?

    Comment

    • zeroex
      Registered User
      • Jan 2007
      • 55

      #3
      yea, pretty sure its not bolt stick. running a lvl 10, x-valve on rpg shadow rail, with pariah body and ult trigger set up.

      the sear pin just doesn't move back to normal position sometimes. I'll take a look at the on/off assembly to make sure its not a pin problem, but i'm sure its just the sear.

      Comment

      • secretweaponevan
        Only HALF Polish!
        • Sep 2007
        • 1132

        #4
        Originally posted by zeroex
        yea, pretty sure its not bolt stick. running a lvl 10, x-valve on rpg shadow rail, with pariah body and ult trigger set up.

        the sear pin just doesn't move back to normal position sometimes. I'll take a look at the on/off assembly to make sure its not a pin problem, but i'm sure its just the sear.
        From the LVL 10 guide:
        Shim adjustments
        Put a squeegee right in front of the bolt and pull the trigger. With very little clearance between the bolt and squeegee you will notice that the bolt comes forward and just stops on the squeegee. Then nothing else happens. Pulling the trigger does nothing to reset the bolt. In order to get the bolt to reset when it pinches a ball, we have to let the air out of the air chamber. The shims (5) control where in the forward stroke the air chamber starts venting. Its works a lot like the spacers in the original Mags. We left them out before so you could tell the difference between a carrier leak and a shim leak.

        Remove the power tube tip (7) and drop in two shims (5). Make SURE they are sitting flat in the bottom of the power tube before you screw the power tube tip on otherwise you will bend them up. Bent shims are useless and you will have to buy more. Reassemble the valve system as before using the original main spring and new Superbolt. Now when you air up the marker it should not leak but when you do the squeegee test you will notice that the air starts venting when the Superbolt moves forward. If you keep adding shims eventually the bolt will just leak all the time. For most people two shims work just fine. If you find that when you pinch a ball the marker locks up and does not reset then add another shim.
        Try adding another LVL 10 shim or two. Also make sure that the field strip screw is not over tightened. Also, closely inspect the sear for cracks or burrs.

        Best of luck.

        Comment

        • athomas
          Of course it works-its AGD
          • Jan 2002
          • 8039

          #5
          Originally posted by zeroex
          the sear pin just doesn't move back to normal position sometimes.
          That is bolt stick. When the bolt sticks and doesn't return, the sear cannot rock forward. Therefore, the trigger rod connected to the sear never comes forward to reset the trigger.

          You need to use a larger carrier size than the one you are currently using. Make sure you use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. Remove the powertube shims when changing carriers to make sure you don't get any shim induced leaks when testing. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak.
          Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

          Comment

          • zeroex
            Registered User
            • Jan 2007
            • 55

            #6
            hmm. mmk. i'll try that later tonight and see what'll happen. thanks athomas!

            Comment

            • zeroex
              Registered User
              • Jan 2007
              • 55

              #7
              Originally posted by athomas
              That is bolt stick. When the bolt sticks and doesn't return, the sear cannot rock forward. Therefore, the trigger rod connected to the sear never comes forward to reset the trigger.

              You need to use a larger carrier size than the one you are currently using. Make sure you use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. Remove the powertube shims when changing carriers to make sure you don't get any shim induced leaks when testing. Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak.

              hey athomas, how do i get out the carrier without damaging the bolt? i cant get out the carrier thats inside. thanks!

              Comment

              • athomas
                Of course it works-its AGD
                • Jan 2002
                • 8039

                #8
                The easiest way is to stick your field strip screw into the carrier, put some sideways pressure on it and gently pull it out.
                Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                Comment

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