RT-Pro wont fire

[Snap32]

Rt

Ok guys, let me try to add in my 2 cents, first does it have lvl 10? or lvl 7? Will it fire at all? How bad is the leak down the barrel? gushing or just minor? If you have lvl 10, go here and see if your missing any parts. http://www.automags.org/resource/lev...html#faststart

Do you guys have any lvl 10 parts?

[chibi.penguin85]

Its a lvl 7 bolt. Im sure of it. It gushes air but the gun will fire now, so I'm going to assume that I need some o-rings.

[secretweaponevan]

Put 2 drops of oil directly into the powertube and let it sit for a bit.

[chibi.penguin85]

I put some oil in the powertube a few mins ago. I gonna try it in about 30 mins

[secretweaponevan]

I put some oil in the powertube a few mins ago. I gonna try it in about 30 mins

Ok. I'll drink heavily while you wait.

[chibi.penguin85]

Hmm no luck screwed the tank on and she leaked but when I pulled the trigger the reactivety was crazy.

[secretweaponevan]

What exactly is it doing?

When you say that air gushes from down the barrel, does it sound like a shot happens and then it leaks, or does it just start to vent?

Please be as descriptive as you can be. It will help us to diagnose the problem and make you happy.

I'll continue to drink heavily.

[chibi.penguin85]

It doesnt sound like a shot. just sounds like its gushing out.

[secretweaponevan]

When you release the trigger, does the bolt reset fully to where when you release the trigger the leak stops?

Try loosening your field strip screw. If it is over tightened, it can torque the body out of alignment and prevent the bolt from traveling forward fully to release the shot.

[chibi.penguin85]

When I release the trigger the bolt goes back to where it was to begin with. My field strip screw is only hand tight.

[secretweaponevan]

Cool.

Well, what appears to be happening is that your bolt is not traveling far enough to fully vent the air inside the dump chamber. Since over-tightening the field strip screw is out of the way, it might be a burr on the inside of the washer that is brazed into the mag body (it is a stainless body, right?) That would prevent the bolt from fully traveling forward and venting all at once (a "shot"). Shine a light down the mag body to see if there is a burr, and inspect the bolt to see if it might be rubbing against the brazed-in washer.

Does the bolt travel forward, hesitate while venting and then return? This might point towards a bur

It is either that, or your on/off is not closing completely when the trigger is pulled. This could be caused by too short of an on/off pin, an on/off pin that is in upside-down (the groove should be on the bottom, closest to the frame), or a sear pin that is too long/short.

Wait a second, what valve are you running?

I'll be back tomorrow. Time to go punch the clock with the GF.

Best of luck.

Edit: Post pics of your setup. That would help.

[chibi.penguin85]

Ok I let it sit over night with oil in the powertube. I put it all together this morning and screw in the tank the gun wont fire and leaks (only a tiny leak), but when I pull the trigger the leak stops also if I hold the trigger it doesnt leak. My Powertube has the 220 spacer in it so no lvl 10 stuff. I have tried to replace the o-rings and nothing. Anyway here are some pics.

[secretweaponevan]

Well, there is definitely a problem with the powertube o-ring when the marker just sits there and leaks, but doesn't when the trigger is pulled and held (see the automag video).

When installing the powertube o-ring, the o-ring should go in first, then the spacer, then screw on the powertube tip. The powertube tip should also have an o-ring on it as seen in the .pdf from AGD.

http://www.airgundesignsusa.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf

[chibi.penguin85]

Ok Guys/Girls I have tried it all so Im thinking that my o-rings must be bad so I ordered a new X-Valve, RT-Pro parts kit, so I will replace all the o-rings with new ones(The o-rings I have, have been laying around for sometime now.)