Insane trigger bounce HELP!

[SR_matt]

i think the valve is identical to the xvalve just steel,

i remember having that issue when i tried to get my rt on/off to work but i cannot remember what i did, the orings should seat one inside the other, i think i had misread the diagram and stuck 2 the same size in or something

-matt

[athomas]

On/Off top o-ring- Only one, I tried to do the double o-ring like a classic but the on/off assembly will not go all the way into the valve. It sticks out the thickness of the outer o-ring. took it out.
This valve is an RT Pro could it require a "Quad" ring like the E-mag valves?


Also when I air it up the on/off leaks slightly until I fire it 3or4 times.Then even light pressure on the trigger causes it to leak before it fires.

Last thing to try is the longer pin, which if I thinking right will push the sear into the bolt engagement alittle more but should cause a longer trigger pull,?

In the older retro valves, only one small on-off top oring was used. It sounds like you have one of those valves. They work fine. It just means you won't be able to install a ULT. You won't need a quad oring, but it alone will change the timing just a bit because it seals at the first edge rather than in the center like the regular orings. The quad orings also reduce the friction a bit so it can be a prefered solution.

You mean the on-off leaks out the bottom? That would be a bad on-off small bottom oring. If you mean the valve leaks out the front until you fire a few shots, then it is a powertube oring problem. A leak taht occurs when you apply pressure to the trigger means you probably have too many level 10 shims installed or in the case of a level 7 bolt, a spacer that is too long.


A longer pin, if needed, won't change the trigger pull length. It will put the timing back where it needs to be. The on-off pin has to close the back half of the valve before the sear is released. It sounds like yours is releasing before the on-off is closed. In reverse, the on-off is opening too soon and releasing air which causes the returning bolt to shoot forward again before the sear can engage.

Another thing to check is your rail bushing. If it got lost, it could affect the operation due to the valve not sitting in the proper location.

[SR_matt]

athomas, arent the rt pro valves and xvales the same design though
-matt

[Runamok]

Thanks for the help Guys. Sr Matt, I know what you mean about memory loss . I've fixed things then 3wk's later run into a similar problem and can't remember for the life of me how I fixed it.
Correct in the one o-ring dept. But a ULT is not in the picture for this beast. It's flakey now. I think I'll give a .765 pin and a shorter pwr tube spacer a shot and see if I can get a manageable trigger out of it. Stay tuned for news updates.
Same Bat Time same Bat channel...for those of us old enough to remember that.

[athomas]

athomas, arent the rt pro valves and xvales the same design though
-matt

They are the same with one minor difference. Early RT pro valves and Automag RT valves only used one oring on the on-off top. Newer versions of the valve, including the X-valve had on-off holes that were machined flat to hold the two orings on the on-off top, the same as the original classic valve.

[Snap32]

i had the same problem, check this on my xvalve should be the same as your RT pro valve. Take the on/off out. look into the hole and see how many orings are in there, there should be a larger one with a smaller one in the middle of the larger one.

[athomas]

i had the same problem, check this on my xvalve should be the same as your RT pro valve. Take the on/off out. look into the hole and see how many orings are in there, there should be a larger one with a smaller one in the middle of the larger one.

Based on his description, he has a one oring design Which doesn't use the larger outer oring.

[pump]

if your using a white teflon oring you might switch to an Xring, or check your RT's Xring for wear, the bottom lip might be worn shortening up the pins length of a sort

[vmaxnick]

I've played with a Mag and maintained my own for about 12 years. Just goes to show. When I air up my RT Pro valve it will fire when the trigger is released. Input pressure is 800 psi with a stock RT on/off. Then its " don't breath " because the trigger is that light, again stock on/off.Touch the trigger and she bounces like crazy. Now I seem to recall someone posting that the on/off pin length could be to short and cause this? I've replaced all the o-rings and lubed it well. If the pin is too short can I get a "longer" one? What length? And where? The "x/rt/ e" valve bounce I thought I had down pat , But this one baffles me . Any help would be appreciated.Thank you,
Runamok

Please have a look at my thread RT trigger problems.
I think you may be able to help me with my classic RT

Nick