New to the RT classic

[SOAD8789]

I'm in the middle of purchasing an RT classic. It's been a while since I've played paintball (I'm thinking about 2 1/2 years) and I used to own a couple mags. I know that the RT classic is different than other mags in some ways, but I'm not 100% clear. I looked in the stickies and did a short search elsewhere but couldn't really find anything useful. Any maintenance guides or the like would be much appreciated.

I can't even begin to express my excitement about this though, I regretted getting rid of my old RT back in the day. Never again though, never again.

[lediable]

I'm in the middle of purchasing an RT classic. It's been a while since I've played paintball (I'm thinking about 2 1/2 years) and I used to own a couple mags. I know that the RT classic is different than other mags in some ways, but I'm not 100% clear. I looked in the stickies and did a short search elsewhere but couldn't really find anything useful. Any maintenance guides or the like would be much appreciated.

I can't even begin to express my excitement about this though, I regretted getting rid of my old RT back in the day. Never again though, never again.

If you had an RT back in the day, it may be the same thing you're buying now. I believe the original RT got "classic" tacked onto the name after the RT Pro was introduced and later the RT ULE Custom.

The most important difference between the classic & pro is how gas reaches the valve. In the RT classic, AGD had a stainless hardline that ran foregrip to the back of the rail. Air passed through the rail & banjo bolt to get into the valve. In the RT Pro they made it just like any other mag, so you can run macroline or ss braided line from your ASA to the side of the valve. The AGD Museum I linked above to doesn't show the hardline, but if you poke around the buy/sell/trade forum here you'll find pics of a classic RT's hardline.

Aside from that, I think all that changed was the body, the valve said RT Pro instead of just RT, and the price dropped.

[SOAD8789]

If you had an RT back in the day, it may be the same thing you're buying now. I believe the original RT got "classic" tacked onto the name after the RT Pro was introduced and later the RT ULE Custom.

The most important difference between the classic & pro is how gas reaches the valve. In the RT classic, AGD had a stainless hardline that ran foregrip to the back of the rail. Air passed through the rail & banjo bolt to get into the valve. In the RT Pro they made it just like any other mag, so you can run macroline or ss braided line from your ASA to the side of the valve. The AGD Museum I linked above to doesn't show the hardline, but if you poke around the buy/sell/trade forum here you'll find pics of a classic RT's hardline.

Aside from that, I think all that changed was the body, the valve said RT Pro instead of just RT, and the price dropped.

I had an RT pro. The Classic that I'm buying doesn't have the hardline going from the foregrip to the rail. Would I need to purchase one of those or can I just use macroline?

[211]

you can use macro or stainless, just need something to atach from the asa to the airthru rail
theres another BIG difference with the classic RT, the diameter on the valve is smaller than all the other mag valves, and it is enclosed in the back of the body
not a problem if you plan on using the stock components, but it becomes an issue if you want to trade valves or bodies

[SOAD8789]

you can use macro or stainless, just need something to atach from the asa to the airthru rail
theres another BIG difference with the classic RT, the diameter on the valve is smaller than all the other mag valves, and it is enclosed in the back of the body
not a problem if you plan on using the stock components, but it becomes an issue if you want to trade valves or bodies

Ah, perfect. Upgrading the valve and body would be the least of my concerns. Will this have any effect if I planned on going the pneumag route? From what I understand, the changes wouldn't directly effect the valve/body but the different rail might be an obstacle.

[SN toter]

Ah, perfect. Upgrading the valve and body would be the least of my concerns. Will this have any effect if I planned on going the pneumag route? From what I understand, the changes wouldn't directly effect the valve/body but the different rail might be an obstacle.

Acutally Classic RT's are imo ideal for pnuemag conversions. You already have threaded air ports in the rail, no drilling or tapping for your LPR just slap on a 90* fitting and your LPR