fixing threading in body for main screw

[SR_matt]

ok cool,

after you start threading can you use a bottoming tap or from the way it is shaped do you have to get it to the full depth before using the bottoming tap?

thanks a lot
-matt

[olinar]

A regular tap is somewhat tapered so that the first few threads will catch and guide the rest of the tap in correctly.

The bottoming tap isn't tapered so that you can add threads to the bottom of the the hole.

Are you using just a Ule body or is it something of a little more value?

[SR_matt]

A regular tap is somewhat tapered so that the first few threads will catch and guide the rest of the tap in correctly.

The bottoming tap isn't tapered so that you can add threads to the bottom of the the hole.

Are you using just a Ule body or is it something of a little more value?

more value, IIRC he has an "IT" body

so ya junking it is not a good option.

i didnt word that tap question well, after you start the threading can you just swap to a bottoming tap to continue the threads or is that just causing unneeded wear and tear on the bottoming tap?

thanks
-matt

[athomas]

Bottoming taps don't start well because they are not tapered. Once you start with the regular tapered tap and get the initial threads to full depth, you can change to the bottoming tap. You should go as deep as you can with the tapered tap first. It taps alot easier than a bottoming tap. With a bottoming tap you run the risk of breaking the tap if trying to tap the whole length of the hole, especially in a hard metal.

[SR_matt]

Bottoming taps don't start well because they are not tapered. Once you start with the regular tapered tap and get the initial threads to full depth, you can change to the bottoming tap. You should go as deep as you can with the tapered tap first. It taps alot easier than a bottoming tap. With a bottoming tap you run the risk of breaking the tap if trying to tap the whole length of the hole, especially in a hard metal.

ok thats what i expected but just wanted to check.

ill have to talk to my friend and see what he wants to do. we cant really touch the gun much for the next month (im up at school, hes back home and hes moving at the end of the month, in the same area but just a lot of busy stuff). we may just try to find the number for an friend we havent seen in a while that was a supervisor at a machine shop and see what he can do for him and see how much it would cost. i dont doubt my skills but the money/time/equipment issue is what may just make it better to go to a machine shop.
-matt

[vmaxnick]

Timeserts

ok well update

tried to put a helicoil in, first problem the tap wont go very far in so my friend ended up having to drill into the breach to tap it, coil wouldnt stay in... some how the threading totally stripped out again. so he jamed the coil in the hole to have some grip on the body, electrical taped the gun together and we played the first day of the scenario to day. has worked fine so far, of course its not what we really want but hey its working for now.

now we just have to figure out how to fix it. i asked a machinist friend from another team that used to be on my team and he sat there and thought for a few mins and replied with "i really dont know what to tell you, if it keeps stripping out im not sure what will fix it"

so ya, we might try and retap it at a much larger screw or something.

-matt

Ring around and see if you can find someone that uses 'timeserts' they are like helicoils but are solid with a clever syncd inner outer thread arrangement and they fit with threadlocker then snap off leaving a locked tab.
Bike and auto shops use them.
One manufacturer that makes them is a German company wurth see if you can find a place that uses them!

[SR_matt]

those might be the thing i was thinking of as a "nutsert" but all the ones i have seen are more like rivets that have threading inside that you press fit into auto bodies

-matt

[MANN]

well the hole is totally stripped out to the OD of the helicoil. im not sure if you meant to use a longer or a wider screw.

and with the amount of metal left there still i think "just scraping" a rarer body is frankly stupid (heck even if that whole part was gone there are many ways to get around just scrapping it). we may resort to going to a machine shop and seeing if they can fix it, i know you can double helicoil but i dont want to risk tapping it out more unless we can get a very good grip in the metal

-matt

my bad. I thought it was a ule. I figured that you would spend more time/money than what it was worth.

use a wider screw. IE 1/4" something somewhat fine tho. You dont have much room on the Y axis so you shouldnt use coarse threads. let us know how it works.