ULT leak? Trigger not reseting help?

[Freebird]

Hello, i recently switched from my classic 68 valve to an old xvalve i found laying around the
shop. I noticed that it had a lvl10 and a ULT kit. I swapped the guts from my perfectly tuned
lvl10 on my classic valve and put it all back together. The lvl 10 works beautifully, but there is a slight problem. There seems to be a leak coming from the ULT. when i shoot a few times it stops then when i move the trigger side to side a little or apply very slight pressure the ULT will
leak.
Also somtimes the trigger will not reset or seems that it is not charged. The bolt resets
and everything like that is fine but the trigger is funny. I do not need the ULT ans certianatly
dont need it to be super sensitive. I have the mag in a rifle stock and use it for scenario
only. Iam also not sure how to tune it but there were four shims on it, i reduced it to two and
it made the trigger a little less sensitive. Like i said im not concerned with the sensitivity i
just want the thing ready to west point this weekend. Is it possible to take the On/OFF
assembly from my classic 68 valve and put it in the Xvalve?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

[Spider-TW]

The classic on/off must fit, since the classic valve is happy with the RT on/off, but the trigger pull and the RT kick should be huge. If you're not after the light trigger, the stock RT on/off is the solid choice.

Leaks with trigger tension are usually in the powertube orings, but if you think it's in the ULT put some new orings in it. If you don't have them, try taking it all apart and cleaning the orings and oring grooves. Those rings don't really wear; they mostly get old and hard (urethane) and dirty (teflon). You can use synthetic grease on those orings to buy a little time.

[Freebird]

thank you,

I would throw a regular RT on/off in there if i had one. Im going to go try putting a classic on/off in there now. I just need the gun ready for this weekend. Ill also try taking all of the rings out and giving them a good cleaning.

[Spider-TW]

Post up the classic results. I can't remember anyone else doing that.

If your valve normally retains pressure when you disassemble it, watch out for the classic on/off pin since it's not captured in the on/off body like the others.

[Freebird]

you cant reverse the On/offs, the classic one is not tapered on the top like the RT one so it will not fit in the body. Im just going to go back to my classic valve for now and mess with the X valve when i get back from west point.

[Spider-TW]

I was thinking about the RT-like top on the classic on/off (?).

No luck on cleaning the ULT either?

I was working a chrony station a few weeks ago and a guy kept coming back with his a-5 that would not turn down. On his fourth trip he shows up with a classic mag.

[athomas]

you cant reverse the On/offs, the classic one is not tapered on the top like the RT one so it will not fit in the body. Im just going to go back to my classic valve for now and mess with the X valve when i get back from west point.

The on-off assemblies are the same length for both the retro/x valves and the classic valves. You should be able to put the classic on-off in the x-valve. The only difference will be the operation. The trigger pull will be 8lbs just like the classic valve. There will be more kick just like the retro valve. The difference between the trigger pull and the kick back will be reduced because of the higher pull force, so the rt effect will be reduced as well.