standard pin length

[bjyourk]

Have an Xvalve in my emag with a standard on/off. I am have some full auto issues. Would the longer pin that is in the standard on/off cause that? Also, if I got an emag on off, do I swap the whole assembly or just the pin?(can I just put the shorter pin in the standard). After reading the other posts about this, it seems that only a shorter pin should cause the marker full auto, right?

Lastly, how can you tell if the sear is is worn? Will it OBVIOUSLY look worn or have the lip rounded?

[bjyourk]

Helloooo.......?

[Coralis]

Yes a worn sear will be rounded where it contacts the bolt , as far as the pin length question I cant help you as I have never owned an emag

[bjyourk]

Yes a worn sear will be rounded where it contacts the bolt , as far as the pin length question I cant help you as I have never owned an emag

Not trying to be difficult, but would I need to compare two sears to tell the difference or is it noticeable?

[BlackVCG]

The sear should come to a sharp point where it latches onto the bolt. When they start wearing because somebody messed around with the trigger rod length, or in the case of an E-Mag the solenoid plunger length, that sharp point will start turning into a flat spot.

A sear on a gun that isn't tinkered with should essentially last forever.

As for your on/off assembly, you'll want to make sure you're using the black quad o-ring for the on/off top o-ring and a .712" pin. The rest of the assembly (brass top and bottom pieces) is compatible with all E-Mag, RT, X-Valves.

[bjyourk]

The sear should come to a sharp point where it latches onto the bolt. When they start wearing because somebody messed around with the trigger rod length, or in the case of an E-Mag the solenoid plunger length, that sharp point will start turning into a flat spot.

A sear on a gun that isn't tinkered with should essentially last forever.

As for your on/off assembly, you'll want to make sure you're using the black quad o-ring for the on/off top o-ring and a .712" pin. The rest of the assembly (brass top and bottom pieces) is compatible with all E-Mag, RT, X-Valves.

So I can put a quad and a shorter pin in/on my standard on/off? Would this fix my full auto issues?

[Geronimo7]

So I can put a quad and a shorter pin in/on my standard on/off? Would this fix my full auto issues?

Yes, replacing the pin and o-ring is the easiest and cheapest way. As far as the full auto issue, dunno. But definatly replace the on/off pin and oring

[PhoenixWolf]

The E-Mag on/off is .712, vs. the standard .725. The purpose for this to reduce the travel and pressure required to fire the gun (effectively equivalent to shimming a trigger on a mechanical Mag). I had some problems getting my E-Mag to fire with my unmodified X-Valve, although it worked just fine with my unmodified ReTro valve. I replaced the on/off pin and that fixed it immediately.

[bjyourk]

The E-Mag on/off is .712, vs. the standard .725. The purpose for this to reduce the travel and pressure required to fire the gun (effectively equivalent to shimming a trigger on a mechanical Mag). I had some problems getting my E-Mag to fire with my unmodified X-Valve, although it worked just fine with my unmodified ReTro valve. I replaced the on/off pin and that fixed it immediately.

Was your gun going full auto?

[PhoenixWolf]

Negative. It wasn't shooting. Period. Hmm. Going full auto sounds like a bounce issue. Take the grip off and find out if the solenoid is actuating when it goes full auto. If it is, you've got trigger bounce. Later AGD software and XMod has a FIX or debounce function which should help. Note that some of the earlier AGD softwares had a very real problem with this, especially if your solenoid was wired incorrectly.

[bjyourk]

Negative. It wasn't shooting. Period. Hmm. Going full auto sounds like a bounce issue. Take the grip off and find out if the solenoid is actuating when it goes full auto. If it is, you've got trigger bounce. Later AGD software and XMod has a FIX or debounce function which should help. Note that some of the earlier AGD softwares had a very real problem with this, especially if your solenoid was wired incorrectly.

The plunger is moving. It has xmod 1.8 software. I also tried the FIX but nothing. It does this in mech too so I'm thinking on/off issue first, then sear maybe.

Just want to exhaust all options before sending it to be tuned.

[PhoenixWolf]

If the gun is turned on, the plunger still actuates in Mech mode. Raise the FIX until the gun won't fire at all in E-Mode, then back off slowly. Incorrectly wired solenoids require a higher FIX. Also make sure the gun is set to Semi mode and not Full.

[bjyourk]

If the gun is turned on, the plunger still actuates in Mech mode. Raise the FIX until the gun won't fire at all in E-Mode, then back off slowly. Incorrectly wired solenoids require a higher FIX. Also make sure the gun is set to Semi mode and not Full.

ok, tried that. got a few shots off but then FA again. What should i set the dwell to? I assume pretty low to get the most out of the dwell setting.

[PhoenixWolf]

Never any lower than 10. 13-15 is standard. Lower DWEL setting will result in your solenoid overheating because it is working faster than it is designed to.

[bjyourk]

Never any lower than 10. 13-15 is standard. Lower DWEL setting will result in your solenoid overheating because it is working faster than it is designed to.

Thats what I thought. I have it set at 14 now. Wouldn't the shorter pin in the on/off make it do more of the same. I would thing a longer pin would stop it...provided the on/off is the problem.