CLassic Automag / Minimag

[gino230]

I have an orignal 68 automag, serial # on the valve body is 1661. I think I won it at the Masters in 1991 or so.

Does anyone make a compressed air conversion for this gun?

I recently returned to the sport after about 15 years off.... I rented some kind of tippman with an electric trigger. Not very accurate...at least not as accurate as I remember my old 'mag to be! So I am trying to resurrect it, if possible.

Polished stainless, with hopper left power feed. I also have a vertical bottle conversion, drilled out valve body, and about 6 different barrels for it. It was a pretty hot setup at the time!

Thanks,

Gino

[michbich]

If i'm not mistaken, you don't need a conversion. They both operate at about the same output pressure if you have a high pressure reg.

Just put a couple drops of oil and air it up to check for leaks.

[EclipseClassic]

I would buy a 68Automag Parts kit, Powertube Spacer kit, and a Level 10 bolt upgrade from AGD. Clean the Reg, change the o-rings, and install the Level 10. A 68 that old is going to need some TLC, but not much. Slap a HP tank on that thing and you should be good to go for a long, long, long time.

[halB]

Get the level X

[kevdupuis]

Clean lube and screw the HPA tank in, You don't need LVL 10 with a classic valve unless you have a problem breaking paint.

[secretweaponevan]

I would buy a 68Automag Parts kit, Powertube Spacer kit, and a Level 10 bolt upgrade from AGD. Clean the Reg, change the o-rings, and install the Level 10.

As said, the gun was designed for HPA, just be sure to get a High Pressure Output (850 psi) reg on the tank.

You won't need a spacer kit if you get the LVL 10 upgrade (it is awesome and fun to learn).

Because it is a mag, all you will ever need is o-rings and lube and it will run forever.

[gino230]

As said, the gun was designed for HPA, just be sure to get a High Pressure Output (850 psi) reg on the tank.

You won't need a spacer kit if you get the LVL 10 upgrade (it is awesome and fun to learn).

Because it is a mag, all you will ever need is o-rings and lube and it will run forever.

So all you need is a tank with regulator? Seems too easy...I thought the old CO2 guns were not compatible.

I took it apart the other day, it still had plenty of oil on all of the internals. I used to work on these things way back when- I seem to remember it's the little white teflon o ring that makes it hiss....... even the foamie on the end of the bolt was still good.

Thanks for all of the assistance,

Gino

[secretweaponevan]

So all you need is a tank with regulator?

99% of all HPA tanks come with a reg, just make sure to get a tank where the reg puts out at least 800 PSI for a classic valve. An adjustable reg isn't needed for a classic valve.

Seems too easy...I thought the old CO2 guns were not compatible.

Yep, they are. It's just the newer RT valve family that can't use CO2.

I took it apart the other day, it still had plenty of oil on all of the internals. I used to work on these things way back when- I seem to remember it's the little white teflon o ring that makes it hiss....... even the foamie on the end of the bolt was still good.

Thanks for all of the assistance,

Gino

Yup, if it leaks out the barrel just sitting there, it is the powertube o-ring.
If you hold the trigger and it leaks out the barrel, it is the white teflon on/off o-ring.

Those are basically the only 2 o-rings that fail.

Glad to help.

[Spider-TW]

Some of the old AIR valves need new reg spring packs on HPA. It's not a definite need. If you screw in the adjustment nut all the way and cannot reach 280 fps, it will need a spring pack. Otherwise you should have no problem up to about 10-13 bps. I had a 4000 series AIR valve that had no problem with HPA. It didn't leak when I drug it out of the attic, but it only lasted about three days of play before the seals started causing trouble. Velocity became erratic as well.