LX10 Problems

[Poon985]

I installed my level 10 last year and I thought I got it working properly and set it aside. I haven't played with it in a game since yesterday. I Shot a few test rounds and it was fine, at the field when I shot it the bolt kept sticking and wouldn't shoot. I oiled it all up and it seemed to work fine for the rest of the day. After awhile though the bolt started sticking again and it would drop paint out of the end of the barrel. I cleaned it that night and aired it up and it leaked out the barrel real bad, it would stop if I pushed in on the barrel. I put in the next smaller carrier and it stopped the leak, but I am worried that it might be too tight, the other one wasn't loose, but was barley on the end of the bolt. Also what should my lowest PSI for operation be, I thought I remember it being real low on mags, but it was misfiring and running out of air around 800psi, is that normal for a LX10 valve. I was getting frustrated and almost debating putting the LX7 back on, so any information would e great.

And another question, the sear pin behind the trigger, should it be firm up against the back of the trigger when charged with air, mine has a small space, 1/16"+-.

[FA22RaptorF22]

The pressure for mags is stated on the side on the valve. It is actually the opposite of what you remember. Mags like higher pressure. The sweetspot for rt'ing a mag is 1100-1300 psi. A pre-set 850psi tank will do just fine though. as for the space, that should be alright, and i don't think that is the problem. You could also play with the powertube shims...as i see youve already gone after the carriers. Try that and see what happens.

[secretweaponevan]

I installed my level 10 last year and I thought I got it working properly and set it aside. I haven't played with it in a game since yesterday. I Shot a few test rounds and it was fine, at the field when I shot it the bolt kept sticking and wouldn't shoot. I oiled it all up and it seemed to work fine for the rest of the day.

Be sure to put 3 drops of autolube or some other synthetic lube in the ASA before playing. Remove the barrel (unless you like getting your squeegie full of oil) and fire 20 or so shots to lube the internals.

After awhile though the bolt started sticking again and it would drop paint out of the end of the barrel. I cleaned it that night and aired it up and it leaked out the barrel real bad, it would stop if I pushed in on the barrel.

Be sure you didn't lose the little rail bushing that sits in the rail where the field strip screw goes through.

I put in the next smaller carrier and it stopped the leak, but I am worried that it might be too tight, the other one wasn't loose, but was barley on the end of the bolt.

After you "break in" a carrier o-ring, you want to move it to the largest carrier that doesn't leak. You said you had it set up last year, but maybe it wasn't fully "broken in".

Also what should my lowest PSI for operation be, I thought I remember it being real low on mags, but it was misfiring and running out of air around 800psi, is that normal for a LX10 valve. I was getting frustrated and almost debating putting the LX7 back on, so any information would e great.

Your gauges might be off (none are exact) but a level 10 mag needs over 500psi to work properly where a level 7 needs 400-450psi, if memory serves.

And another question, the sear pin behind the trigger, should it be firm up against the back of the trigger when charged with air, mine has a small space, 1/16"+-.

That is the correct spacing, about the thickness of a credit card when the trigger is resting against the safety and the marker is aired up.