Level X Question

[KevinA]

I know most everyone opened this thinking not again, and is getting ready to link me to the Official Level X problems thread. Only there is no problem, it works fine, I was reading on how to tune the Level X, and got to thinking when does it need to be tuned? Is it after X amount of shots? And the whole point is to have the shortest spring on there right? Thanks in advance for any help provided.

Kevin

[VTLO910]

I know most everyone opened this thinking not again, and is getting ready to link me to the Official Level X problems thread. Only there is no problem, it works fine, I was reading on how to tune the Level X, and got to thinking when does it need to be tuned? Is it after X amount of shots? And the whole point is to have the shortest spring on there right? Thanks in advance for any help provided.

Kevin

I have heard more then one person say, once it is tuned... pending your not having any issues with it... Just let it be... It should not need tuning again.

[KevinA]

I heard that too, and had no intent of trying to tune it, but was curious because I was going to be putting my valve, and level X on a set of Emag lowers, and didn't know if it would require tuning. I was also curious about the different sized springs, the shortest is the one you want right?

[guseppe16]

As far as tuning the level 10, the two main reasons to tune it are:

1) Air leak down the barrel from the powertube (carrier) o-ring: Remove the o-ring from the carrier and install that same o-ring in the next size smaller carrier. Repeat this til the leak stops. If it keeps leaking with even the smallest carrier, replace the o-ring. Note, the new o-ring will take a while to get worn in properly (a case of paint or so), so start with the largest carrier when using a new o-ring and work your way down in size.

2) Bolt not resetting after it chuffs: Add a shim to the powertube and recheck. Repeat til the bolt resets every time.

The length of the powertube spring affects how hard the bolt impacts the ball. The shorter the spring, the less resistance against the bolt and therefore it hits the ball with more force. Opposite for the longest spring. Use longer springs for more fragile paint and vice versa.

[KevinA]

As far as tuning the level 10, the two main reasons to tune it are:

1) Air leak down the barrel from the powertube (carrier) o-ring: Remove the o-ring from the carrier and install that same o-ring in the next size smaller carrier. Repeat this til the leak stops. If it keeps leaking with even the smallest carrier, replace the o-ring. Note, the new o-ring will take a while to get worn in properly (a case of paint or so), so start with the largest carrier when using a new o-ring and work your way down in size.

2) Bolt not resetting after it chuffs: Add a shim to the powertube and recheck. Repeat til the bolt resets every time.

The length of the powertube spring affects how hard the bolt impacts the ball. The shorter the spring, the less resistance against the bolt and therefore it hits the ball with more force. Opposite for the longest spring. Use longer springs for more fragile paint and vice versa.

Ahhh, ok that is what I was looking for.

[michbich]

I heard that too, and had no intent of trying to tune it, but was curious because I was going to be putting my valve, and level X on a set of Emag lowers, and didn't know if it would require tuning. I was also curious about the different sized springs, the shortest is the one you want right?

If you swapping the valve, it might need a little bit of tunning...i don't know.

About the springs: The spring returns the bolt. So the longer the spring, the more energy it will have to return it and the more energy it will take to push the bolt forward. So the longer the spring, the gentler on paint it will be.

Basicly, the air pressure is what drives the bolt forward. The spring acts against that forward motion. It's like a counter balance.

[KevinA]

Makes sense. So I may have to tune it when I start moving into the faster rates of fire the E lowers will have.

[trevorjk]

as long as the LX vents properly and resets properly with no issues, it shouldnt have an issue at any speed really.

the only time it will need to be retuned is if it doesnt reset properly or stalls when it resets the bolt ect. or after a long time the oring starts to leak.

[KevinA]

Great thanks for the help!

[kcpaintballpage]

I had to use red spring in my level 10 emag. and i had to replace it about every 5 cases bolt stick

[BAZOOKA_Boy]

I use the uncut silver spring, though I have massive input pressure, the reg bumps that down alot, anyway, I have not tuned it sense I did the first time, and as long as I keep it oiled it works perfect, even about 10 or so cases later, I just hope that the powertube oring doesn't go bad anytime soon, as the one I got is making it work beautifully.

basically, I just set and forget, keep general maintenance, and you shouldn't have to retune it till you get a new powertube oring in there.

[lidocaine]

if you start chopping you change the spring that goes onto the bolt right to a stronger one right?

[secretweaponevan]

if you start chopping you change the spring that goes onto the bolt right to a stronger one right?

Pretty much.
The different springs are for different velocities. If you want to shoot at 280fps, use the spring that starts allowing the marker to cycle at 20fps lower than that (260fps).

So, if you turn up your velocity enough, you might need a stronger spring. However, if your spring is just worn out, get a factory replacement.

[lidocaine]

The strengths are silver ( weak) gold ( medium ) and red ( strong) right?

[finnmanpa]

The strengths are silver ( weak) gold ( medium ) and red ( strong) right?

the shortest is weakest, red is the middle one