Problem with 12v Warp Feed Mod

[cpt.maverick]

I recently purchased a used warp feed to use on my warp left tac one. The warp obviously has some wear but is in good condition over all. It runs just fine on one 9v, but as the performance junky that I am I saw I could get more from 12v. Now I've followed the common instructions on here (get the 12v Regulator from Radio Shack with a 100 micro Farad capacitor, hook the batteries up in series and put the capacitor on the output side of the 12v regulator.

So I have done all this but one of the first things I noticed when I did this was that when hooked up to the warp the regulator and capacitor got extremely hot at first (then I disconnected it) I grabbed my volt meter checked it again (and everything seems to check out I was still getting 11.85V). So I hooked it back up again (though before I did I noticed my capacitor now had a slight bulge to it). Now when I hook up the 12v Mod to the warp I notice that a single chip on the board gets extremely hot. (I have circled this chip in the attached photo.) I think this chip/circuit regulates or switches current to the motor but I don't know for sure.



So my question is this: What's the deal? I don't think I am doing anything wrong but obviously the heat output is not something desirable and I'm afraid if I use the 12v mod I might burn out my board. BTW currently when I hook up a single 9v (or two 9v in a big cell/parallel configuration, everything still seems to run just fine, no excessive heat anywhere...)

Thanks for your input on my weird problem.

[marked74]

I recently purchased a used warp feed to use on my warp left tac one. The warp obviously has some wear but is in good condition over all. It runs just fine on one 9v, but as the performance junky that I am I saw I could get more from 12v. Now I've followed the common instructions on here (get the 12v Regulator from Radio Shack with a 100 micro Farad capacitor, hook the batteries up in series and put the capacitor on the output side of the 12v regulator.

So I have done all this but one of the first things I noticed when I did this was that when hooked up to the warp the regulator and capacitor got extremely hot at first (then I disconnected it) I grabbed my volt meter checked it again (and everything seems to check out I was still getting 11.85V). So I hooked it back up again (though before I did I noticed my capacitor now had a slight bulge to it). Now when I hook up the 12v Mod to the warp I notice that a single chip on the board gets extremely hot. (I have circled this chip in the attached photo.) I think this chip/circuit regulates or switches current to the motor but I don't know for sure.



So my question is this: What's the deal? I don't think I am doing anything wrong but obviously the heat output is not something desirable and I'm afraid if I use the 12v mod I might burn out my board. BTW currently when I hook up a single 9v (or two 9v in a big cell/parallel configuration, everything still seems to run just fine, no excessive heat anywhere...)

Thanks for your input on my weird problem.

The cap bulging is a sign that it is failing or has failed. Whether something else caused it to fail, or it was on it's way out anyway I can't be sure. Also not sure what it's doing in that circuit without someone who's better at electronics than I looking at a schematic for that circuit. caps that big in small voltage circuits are usually for power filtering, so it's probably one of the first things in the circuit to see voltage. If that failed it could cause the heat you're experiencing from the chip, though again I can't say what your failure is (whether something is causing too much going through the cap AND the chip, or the failed cap causing the chip to overheat, OR something you're doing is causing the cap to fail). If you can solder I'd first try going back to Rat Shack and picking up another 100uf cap - make sure it's rated for the voltages you need. For a 12V circuit I'd go at least 16V on the cap but you should be able to find 25V no problem. Desoldering the old one involves some copper braid (also called solder wick) that is also available at the Shack. Just pay attention to the polarity orientation of the cap that's in there. 100ufs are electrolytic and are polarity sensitive (though you can buy non-polarized electrolytics sometimes, they're labeled as such and are convenient when you don't know what the original orientation was).

Anyway changing the cap is dependent on being able to solder on electronics. If you're not experienced at soldering I'd find someone who is - chances they have a soldering iron suitable for the job (something in the 25-40W range).

[cpt.maverick]

I didn't realize that capacitors were polarity sensitive. Very good to know I actually already have a spare capacitor (it's the 100uF 35V electrolytics just like you said, I purchased the radially mounted capacitor because I thought it'd be easier to construct though now an axial model might have been more appropriate.) I'm willing to bet the failed capacitor is probably the root problem here. Just as an aside question I have been using crimp connectors because I despise soldering. As long as crimp connectors have good contact with the capacitor is that acceptable? Or must a capacitor be soldered, I wouldn't think so but only took one EE course. Thanks for your help!

[MournBlade]

Solder it in.

[phatty123]

I did the 12 volt mod without a cap? i just used a 12v reg.


-barry

[cpt.maverick]

Barry,
I noticed that when I had old batteries I didn't need a capacitor it just worked normally. But when I put new batteries on my drop in mod the warp just ran (much faster than before and) constantly. Now with the capacitor on there it doesn't run constantly but I am getting this heat issue now though. When I get home tonight I'll try messing with the other capactior and see if it still over heats.

[phatty123]

Barry,
I noticed that when I had old batteries I didn't need a capacitor it just worked normally. But when I put new batteries on my drop in mod the warp just ran (much faster than before and) constantly. Now with the capacitor on there it doesn't run constantly but I am getting this heat issue now though. When I get home tonight I'll try messing with the other capactior and see if it still over heats.

Interesting. Are you using sound activation. I have an intellifeed and have no problems. I did ditch the 12v mod after awhile because I really just dont shoot fast enough with the big cell mod you I think it does 14-15 my loader only feeds 18 so its a good match. You don't really need to shoot faster then that anyway.


-barry

[varq]

Interesting. Are you using sound activation. I have an intellifeed and have no problems. I did ditch the 12v mod after awhile because I really just dont shoot fast enough with the big cell mod you I think it does 14-15 my loader only feeds 18 so its a good match. You don't really need to shoot faster then that anyway.


-barry

I agree... i ditched the 12v mod for the bigcell mod... no need for the 12v as the bigcell spins fast enough to keep up..

here are pics of how the mods look like..scroll to the bottom hope this help

http://www.automagsuk.com/warpfeed.html

[marked74]

I didn't realize that capacitors were polarity sensitive. Very good to know I actually already have a spare capacitor (it's the 100uF 35V electrolytics just like you said, I purchased the radially mounted capacitor because I thought it'd be easier to construct though now an axial model might have been more appropriate.) I'm willing to bet the failed capacitor is probably the root problem here. Just as an aside question I have been using crimp connectors because I despise soldering. As long as crimp connectors have good contact with the capacitor is that acceptable? Or must a capacitor be soldered, I wouldn't think so but only took one EE course. Thanks for your help!

Only electrolyitc caps and tantalum caps are polarized (paper in oil might be as well, not entirely sure - those aren't really used anymore and certainly something you won't find at radio shack...). Film, silver mica, and ceramic caps are not polarized. I have no idea why this is... AFAIK about the highest uf cap you can get in film is ~2uf, so larger than that are tants or electrrolyitcs. You're right about axial v. radial, and sorry I neglected to mention it. You can use either, but you're right axial is easier for inline wiring. I would solder it to ensure a good connection, as well as heat shrink over the connection to prevent it from shorting on anything.

Though, reading through the rest of the thread, none of it matters if you're not going to stick with the 12V mod

[cpt.maverick]

Interesting. Are you using sound activation. I have an intellifeed and have no problems. I did ditch the 12v mod after awhile because I really just dont shoot fast enough with the big cell mod you I think it does 14-15 my loader only feeds 18 so its a good match. You don't really need to shoot faster then that anyway.


-barry

Nope I am using an intellifeed setup as well. If you check out the automagsuk site someone has linked above, the author of that site also mentions this "phenomenon" of an always running warp when you have an uncapacitized 12v mod installed. Unfortunately I didn't have time to check out my stuff last night, I was busy doing 'dad stuff' instead. I've got 3 kids under 2 right now so sometimes paintball takes a back seat. (I'm just waiting till they're older, then they'll be doing this stuff with me )

[phatty123]

Nope I am using an intellifeed setup as well. If you check out the automagsuk site someone has linked above, the author of that site also mentions this "phenomenon" of an always running warp when you have an uncapacitized 12v mod installed. Unfortunately I didn't have time to check out my stuff last night, I was busy doing 'dad stuff' instead. I've got 3 kids under 2 right now so sometimes paintball takes a back seat. (I'm just waiting till they're older, then they'll be doing this stuff with me )

weird, well good luck


-barry

[secretweaponevan]

(I'm just waiting till they're older, then they'll be doing this stuff FOR me )

Fixed!