Carrier stuck, powertube leak and venting

[michbich]

Ok, to start with, i have a stock minimag and an automag with RT valve and hyperframe.

The carrier is stuck in the RT powertube. I tried the field strip screw trick with no success. I want to remove it because it's in my old RT valve (#296) and can't get the velocity high enough before it starts venting. I don't want to damage it.

On the automag, there is no powertube leak. When i transfer the RT valve to the minimag, it leaks very very slightly. My guess would be the sear or trigger rod lenght but not 100% sure.

I guess i need a new reg piston...

What do you guys think?

[secretweaponevan]

Ok, to start with, i have a stock minimag and an automag with RT valve and hyperframe.

The carrier is stuck in the RT powertube. I tried the field strip screw trick with no success. I want to remove it because it's in my old RT valve (#296) and can't get the velocity high enough before it starts venting. I don't want to damage it.

On the automag, there is no powertube leak. When i transfer the RT valve to the minimag, it leaks very very slightly. My guess would be the sear or trigger rod lenght but not 100% sure.

I guess i need a new reg piston...

What do you guys think?

Yeah, the old pistons vent at a lower pressure than the newer ones. If you can grip the piston in a vise without marring it, you can turn the black screw 1/2 a turn and that will allow it to work with a level 10 bolt, but if you don't feel comfortable with that operation, just pick up a new one from airgundesignsusa.com or tunaman.com.

Add oil and use the largest carrier that doesn't leak.

[Ruler_Mark]

using one of thoose grippy plastic things to opening jars helps hold it

[athomas]

On the automag, there is no powertube leak. When i transfer the RT valve to the minimag, it leaks very very slightly. My guess would be the sear or trigger rod lenght but not 100% sure.

This is generally caused by wear on the sear. However, it can be compensated for by using a shorter powertube spacer. If you have a level 10 bolt, then remove a couple of shims.

[michbich]

Yeah, the old pistons vent at a lower pressure than the newer ones. If you can grip the piston in a vise without marring it, you can turn the black screw 1/2 a turn and that will allow it to work with a level 10 bolt, but if you don't feel comfortable with that operation, just pick up a new one from airgundesignsusa.com or tunaman.com.

Add oil and use the largest carrier that doesn't leak.

Where is that black screw? I desassembled the valve. The piston reg has no black screw on the outside.

Edit:

[michbich]

I tried standard and metric allen keys, I haven't found any set screws within the reg piston.

Any help?

[secretweaponevan]

I tried standard and metric allen keys, I haven't found any set screws within the reg piston.

Any help?

Huh. Your RT valve is venting trying to get up to velocity. This is a new one for me. And I won't be home for like a week to crack open an RT valve.

Paging Dr. athomas. Paging Dr. athomas!

[athomas]

On the classic assembly, you can get at the adjustment directly from the end of the assembly, but on the retro assembly it is inside. In order to access it, you need to take the assembly apart. I have never done this, but the two halves should unscrew. You will need heat to break the loctite bond on the threads. Once inside, you should see a large allen head screw. Tighten this down to increase the pressure release setting. I have no idea how much rotation it takes. Use at your own discretion and be aware that too much pressure increase can be dangerous. This is the safety release that protects the valve from overpressure in the event that an oring fails.