Switching from a Classic Valve to a ReTro on a AM frame...

[Fated]

So I decided I wanted to upgrade and mess around with my Classic Auto Mag. And I figured id trade out the Classic valve with something with a little firepower and a lvl-x, So I picked up a ReTro valve. First thing I did out of the box was take out the Classic and throw in the ReTro. Heres where my problem is... When I pull the trigger (Carbon fiber trigger frame, single trigger, nothing fancy) it fires, then it like half fires, and leaks, and then the trigger doesn't come back out all the way, and shes leaking, and then she'll fire reactively for a small burst, then rinse repeat and so on. Ill pull of the barrel, and look in the chamber and see the bolt try and move sometimes, but just half fires(kinda like the lvl-x is supposed to) but it just seems like something isnt right. So I'm curious, am I doing something wrong? I'm pretty new to mags, and even newer to building em, so I could have easily overlooked something. Like do i need a different seer? or trigger frame thats made for reactivity? could the velocity have been to low, i never adjusted it and didnt think about it till after words? OR is the ReTro not compatible with the AM Rail+body? Or is it Just lvl-x needing adjustment? Before you ask, I was using a topped off 3k hpa tank, and I threw in a few drops of oil when i aired it up.
Any help on this matter would be awesome. But if my forum searching skills suck, and theres a post thats either super similar, or exactly the same on here already, please someone just link it to me. Thanks again!

[mostpeople]

obvious question time

did you turn up the velocity?

[Fated]

At the huge risk of sounding competley idiotic, I have not. But in my defence, its only cause my girlfriend would NOT let me spend the last evening before going to play air force for a few days doing "paintball stuff" so I never got to that stage in the troubleshooting. But that's likely the problem, I just wanted to make sure I don't have some crazy "zomg your level 10 is 5 shots from lighting your gun into a firey cataclysm!" type problem :)

[secretweaponevan]

At the huge risk of sounding competley idiotic, I have not. But in my defence, its only cause my girlfriend would NOT let me spend the last evening before going to play air force for a few days doing "paintball stuff" so I never got to that stage in the troubleshooting. But that's likely the problem, I just wanted to make sure I don't have some crazy "zomg your level 10 is 5 shots from lighting your gun into a firey cataclysm!" type problem :)

Nope, just need to tune it.

Remove all LVL 10 shims.
Pick 1 carrier o-ring and stick with it.
Use oil.
Use #2 carrier (2 lines, no dots).
Shoot 1000 shots to break in o-ring.
Move broken-in o-ring to largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Use red spring for 285 fps.
If bolt sticks after encountering a jam, add a shim.

[Fated]

Ok, so new update. I get home from my guard weekend, and I air up my ReTro and give it another ago. Its doing the same as before, so I increase the velocity, then lower it, nothing happens. Then I remove the valve, and find the front tip of the power tube is a smidge loose and I tighten it and try again. This time when the air is applied it sounds great! Till I shoot it. And I hear a small leak, not from the barrel, but from the small hole on the right side of the valve. Pull the trigger some more, sometimes it'll leak down the barrel but others not, and then if you shoot it reactively it slowly runs out of air and stops firing for a while until you turn on the safety and after a few seconds it clicks and re-airs. My next step is to take apart the valve I guess... or bring it to my local mag guy... you guys have any ideas?

[athomas]

If its not recharging quickly, it could be dirt inside. This is also most likely the cause of leaking out the side.

Sticking, is usually a carrier that is too tight in your level 10 setup. It prevents the bolt from resetting fast enough. As the bolt resets, it allows the on-off the push the sear into place and open the air passage to the front chamber. The air pushing the bolt against the sear is the click you are hearing.