Upgrading a Classic

[MnwNwo]

Greetings AO! I have a Classic Mag (looks like a pro classic) coming my way that I picked up on these forums. This will be my first Mag and am looking into upgrading it. Here is what I plan on putting into it:

ULE Body - Black (already ordered)
X Valve - Got a used one from here (couldn't pass on the price) - it has been tuned already
Intelliframe
Barrel - Undecided, leaning towards a palmers brass
Hopper - no idea

I already run HPA so that will not be a problem. Just looking for advice on what to look for while assembling the new parts and what not. Will I have to go through the tuning process of the level 10 again? Is there anything special I need to mount the body to the classic rail? I am more curious about how to oil the xvalve and lvl 10 before I put it into the body. If you have any barrel/hopper recommendations, please tell me. I am a complete newbie when it comes to Mags so any advice is helpful! Thanks for reading.

[questionful]

Well, you're basically just buying a second automag. If you just buy another rail you will have two mags, one classic and one RT.

Putting the ULE body on will be no different than putting the steel body on. You just let it sit on the rail and screw it on with the front frame screw. To clarify, the screw goes in through the top of the grip frame, goes through the rail, and then engages the threads on the body. That's a complicated way to say, "yeah you just screw it on."

Putting the parts together will be a piece of cake. You just put the frame, rail and body together with one screw, slide the valve in (take note of the "Z-lock"*), and screw the fieldstrip screw in. Simple as that. For more detailed disassembly and assembly instructions, refer to the Tom Kaye videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vehPc7vuK20

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0d58lF4FGhA&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eWM4GkI1PE&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Th0mG29aW2Q&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvme3R0g03w&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQnGpQYuvlw&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huoHWAt_2CI&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XEcQwpwcHt8&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9Hll4jOOj8&feature=user

As for the hopper. It depends how fast you want to shoot. Your automag will outshoot any hopper. The only things it won't outshoot are a warp (with a voltage mod) and a Q-loader. Get whatever you want, just know that.

Barrel. Completely up to you, depends what you want and what theory you agree with. Weight, length, sound, bore size, and overall quality are things you will want to consider.

I will tell you this, you would be a very happy magger if you got a PPS barrel. And my take on the barrel theory thing is a tight bore match with a 10"-14" brass barrel with few inches of porting makes the best barrel. So I would recommend the 12", .685, ported PPS barrel. But there are tons of options, many of which you would be happy with.

[MnwNwo]

Well, you're basically just buying a second automag. If you just buy another rail you will have two mags, one classic and one RT.

Yeah, I wasn't planning on getting an xvalve, just the level 10. I found a decent deal on it, so I jumped on it. Maybe I will build another one out of the few remaining pieces, heh. Thanks for the links.

[questionful]

Oh, okay. To clarify, the X-valve is the whole valve system, the L10 is just the bolt system. You might need to re-tune the L10, but only the shims, not the carriers. I think. Just start with no shims, and if it shoots fine, then add a shim and air it up. If nothing happens, de-gas it and add another shim, then air it up again. Keep doing this until when you air it up, you hear a leak coming from the bolt area. Then de-gas it, and take one shim out.

[MnwNwo]

Thanks for the simple steps. I will also be getting the ULE system for the valve. We will see how the assembly goes once it all gets here.