BAD Leak after co2 got in Lv7 Valve

[Bagheera]

I just read that Tunaman's comp went down, and may be behind on orders, so I went ahead and ordered the pin from an Ebay retailer. If I need the sear, I'm definitely getting from Tunaman.

[Bagheera]

After massive troubleshooting, I found the problem, and boy do I feel like a moron.

Classic body on classic frame with classic sear and classic everything else = It shoots like a mag should


Warp Right body on classic frame with classic sear and classic everything else = Problems as noted in previous posts. Do I need a different sear, a new frame, or what?

I've already ground this frame to accomodate the warp right, but another thing I've noticed is that the female bolt threads (the ones that go right above the trigger area of the grip frame) stick out a bit farther than the classic standard feed thread. Pictures to follow.

[Coralis]

hmmm try checking to see if your rail is warped or bent, you can do this by sticking it on a flat surface. You can rule out the ule body by putting your classic body on warp rail and see how it works then.

[Bagheera]

I just ruled out the classic body because it works on my classic rail. They can't both be warped, can they? The ULE Warp Right body is having issues, and I think it's because it's not seating properly. However, the cutaway I did on the classic rail gives the Warp Right feedneck plenty of room. I'm wondering if I have to cut away a bit on the rail, where the bolt goes through the rail into the body, to get the Warp Right body to sit a bit lower.

[Coralis]

I dont have any experience dealing with warp bodies, but saying that if it sits down on the rail flat I would think it would be ok. I know some people posted about that it was possible to screw the ball detents in too far and that it would damage the detents and cause bolt stick.

[Bagheera]

From what I can tell, when it's classic body on classic rail, the sear engages the on/off all the way. When it's warp body on classic rail (despite the cutout) the sear isn't engaging the on/off all the way, causing a bad leak and slow recharge.

[Coralis]

can you tell whats hanging up the sear from fully engaging ?

[MagModderMatt]

dont get a new sear..

Sear's are almost never the sole problem, I think I know your problem.. If you are using a classic rail, valve w/a warp ULE body you may have a problem with the on/off pin length. If your sear isnt charging fully to the charge your on/off pin is not long enough with your ULE WARP Body. I dont know what on/off assembly you have but assuming you have a AM/MM on/off you have made the length from sear to on/off when charged to long
(Your on/off cant reach your sear fully)
The gun is airing up, the on/off pin just does not come out far enough to fully push your sear. I havent used my classic mag for years.. but I am guessing that is the problem.(I'm not sure if you can put spacers in the on/off) but you seem to have a pin length shortage

(your sear will RARELY be the problem) when it is, its the clevis arm.. Sear's are hardened steel, hard to break.
the lock tite on the threads is the only thing that can go wrong on sears, making the arm to long or short. they are very tough.

Try making the tip of your sear longer by sanding/cutting the top side (not where the sear hits the on/off) after sanding that till you can see a difference, make the arm a bit longer on the clevis..

that is harsh fix, but only one for your warp body, I think

everyone else pls weigh in, you may have better ideas Questionfull what do u think??[U]

[athomas]

The pim (female threaded protrusion on the bottom of the body) is probably bottoming out on the rail. The classic rails had a hole in the rail that was not quite as deep as the retro rails. This caused some newer bodies to appear to be tight but was off by just enough to cause firing issues. I actually had this issue when using a steel emag body on a classic rail. A fix for this was to grind just a bit off the bottom of the pim to allow the body to sit down tighter on the rail.

[Bagheera]

The pim (female threaded protrusion on the bottom of the body) is probably bottoming out on the rail. The classic rails had a hole in the rail that was not quite as deep as the retro rails. This caused some newer bodies to appear to be tight but was off by just enough to cause firing issues. I actually had this issue when using a steel emag body on a classic rail. A fix for this was to grind just a bit off the bottom of the pim to allow the body to sit down tighter on the rail.

Should I grind (shorten) the pim on the ULE body or should I grind and deepen the seat on the rail? I've considered doing one or the other, but I want to do the one that is most effective.

[Coralis]

it would probably be easier to grind the pim on the body

[Bagheera]

it would probably be easier to grind the pim on the body

That's what I'm thinking too.

[athomas]

Grinding the pim is the easiest solution. That's the one that I did as well. It doesn't take much. Just take a course file and make a few passes across it.

[MagModderMatt]

Athomas has a good point

He's right, I just didn't think of that. "The body will fit flush if you grind it" Genious!
cant grind too far either, so perfect solution
AThomas deserves that!

I was overengineering the problem. that there is a very easy fix, I'm almost sure it will work

[MAGslinger]

That's why I always use a remote with my Mini whenever I use Co2