Well, I've got a full 3k tank at 850 psi output, and the trigger is still mushy. Even though the pin is .750, should I still shave it down? I checked it against the standard on/off pin and it is the exact same length, does that sound right?
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I wouldn't shave the pin yet.
Which bolt do you have?
Which bolt spring do you have?
Are your frame screws just snug and not tight? You might loosen the rear frame screw a hair and see what happens, that can help a long pin and a stuck bolt.
If there is tension on the trigger and no hissing, the on/off may be fine and your bolt is hanging. Do you get the usual 'click, click' when you gas up?Comment
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Guideline #2:Originally posted by flyingpootangYour right it is wrong LOL I wrote this on 2 hours sleep
When the pressure gets low and iffy on the brain, you should stop tuning. :)Comment
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Originally posted by Spider-TW
Right now I have a LVL X, but I just got it a day ago and the valve was doing the same thing with the LVL 7. I do not hear the clicks when I gas it up. The trigger rod doesn't even move when it gasses up until I crank the velocity in all of the way, and I don't hear any clicks at that time either like I think I should. I will try to loosen uo the screws and see if that works. Could it also have something to do with the sear? I don't know, just throwing out another possibility. I've got another valve from my brother-in-law's gun that I will try the on/off on as well and see if there is any difference. Thanks for everyone's help so far on this.Comment
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Check your sear assembly and trigger rod. Make sure the trigger rod is fully seated in the rail. Put the safety on. Hold the trigger against the safety mechanism. The trigger rod should not be touching the back of the trigger when you do this. If it is, then you need to adjust it so that there is a tiny gap.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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And make sure there is nothing under the sear hinge pin while you are in there, so that the sear is sitting all the way down.Originally posted by athomasComment
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Its working, kind of
Okay, I finally had some spare time and I was able to work on my gun. I realized that the rail had been modified and the bottom ground down a little bit, so even the .750 pin was too long. I ground the pin down by just a fraction and I got the gun to fire. The only problem is that I am still having to crank the velocity in ALL the way. I get it just to the point where the sear engages, then anything past that it starts leaking out the back. I haven't run any paint through it, so I don't know how fast it is shooting. I am not sure if the pin needs to be shaved more, or if it is something else in the valve. I'm just thinking out loud...valve pin/spring, spring pack, regulator piston...? I'm not sure if any of these things would make a difference. Again, thanks for everyone's help.Comment
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Post a pic of your rail if you can.
Check the pin in the on/off by sliding it up and down with your fingers. Make sure there are no dents in the bottom of the on/off around the pin that could be pressing on the side of the pin. The brass can't scratch the pin but it can drag on it.
Are you using standard RT on/off orings (no quad orings)?Comment
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