confused first time 'mag owner

[Deus_Wolf]

first off I would like to say that I am a first time 'mag owner, I have shot a few 'mags but this is the first time I've owned one or have even taken it apart. I have good knowledge about paintball and High Pressure parts but I'm not familiar with Automag specific parts. If you decide to help me I would really appreciate it if you would explain things as if I have no Idea what I'm talking about, which is my case. Moreover when i came to the forums to find help I did find similar topics to this one but I didn't understand some of the automag specific jargon.

The problems started when I got to the field on monday; I had shot the 'mag previously but hadn't fiddled with it at all. The field I play at is very mainstream and as such 'mags aren't exactly common. When I went to get my velocity checked it was a little low but I had read that the velocity increased with the rate of fire. Just so we're all on the same level the Marker I have is a Tac-1 with factory installed and tuned ULT and I'm using a preset(HP) 68/45k crossfire tank . One of the more knowledgeable refs said I should probably increase my velocity just a little so I got out my Allen wrench and turned it slightly clockwise. When I tried to fire the marker the bolt moved forward but stayed in the halfway position and vented gas, I assumed this was the relief valve so I lowered my velocity. Now the gun won't shoot at all so I bring it up a little more and it shoots a stream then does one of two things: either the trigger doesn't "pop" back fully OR it starts venting the relief valve again. I decided to put away the mag for the day and play with one of my other markers.


When I get home I try the marker again without paint and the same things happen; either the trigger doesn't "pop" back fully or it starts to vent. So my question is this: Is this a tuning problem dealing solely with the velocity or is this a mechanical problem? In either case what do I do (in detail)? If it's only a velocity problem how do I fix it without a chrono and air? The only thing I could see that I could have done wrong afterward is that I took the back end of the valve off (the part that's silver and is used for velocity adjustment) and I might not have the two springs(the ones that fit inside one-and-other) in the right direction. Does spring direction matter in a 'mag (both for the large main spring and the two other ones mentioned above.)?

[maniacmechanic]

first off I would like to say that I am a first time 'mag owner, I have shot a few 'mags but this is the first time I've owned one or have even taken it apart. I have good knowledge about paintball and High Pressure parts but I'm not familiar with Automag specific parts. If you decide to help me I would really appreciate it if you would explain things as if I have no Idea what I'm talking about, which is my case. Moreover when i came to the forums to find help I did find similar topics to this one but I didn't understand some of the automag specific jargon.

The problems started when I got to the field on monday; I had shot the 'mag previously but hadn't fiddled with it at all. The field I play at is very mainstream and as such 'mags aren't exactly common. When I went to get my velocity checked it was a little low but I had read that the velocity increased with the rate of fire. Just so we're all on the same level the Marker I have is a Tac-1 with factory installed and tuned ULT and I'm using a preset(HP) 68/45k crossfire tank . One of the more knowledgeable refs said I should probably increase my velocity just a little so I got out my Allen wrench and turned it slightly clockwise. When I tried to fire the marker the bolt moved forward but stayed in the halfway position and vented gas, I assumed this was the relief valve so I lowered my velocity. Now the gun won't shoot at all so I bring it up a little more and it shoots a stream then does one of two things: either the trigger doesn't "pop" back fully OR it starts venting the relief valve again. I decided to put away the mag for the day and play with one of my other markers.


When I get home I try the marker again without paint and the same things happen; either the trigger doesn't "pop" back fully or it starts to vent. So my question is this: Is this a tuning problem dealing solely with the velocity or is this a mechanical problem? In either case what do I do (in detail)? If it's only a velocity problem how do I fix it without a chrono and air? The only thing I could see that I could have done wrong afterward is that I took the back end of the valve off (the part that's silver and is used for velocity adjustment) and I might not have the two springs(the ones that fit inside one-and-other) in the right direction. Does spring direction matter in a 'mag (both for the large main spring and the two other ones mentioned above.)?

first thing 2 or 3 drops of oil , the only place we use a little grease is on those 2 springs ( to keep them from rusting )
2nd thing , how much paint has been through this marker ( new or used ) , sounds like your getting a little bolt stick , which can be caused by a dry o-ring in the powertube or the oring is too tight , in which case you need to tune your Level X ( here is a very good thread concerning this ;http://forum.specialopspaintball.com...howtopic=76736 )

[athomas]

If the bolt is sticking forward when you shoot, that is an indication that the white powertube carrier oring is too tight. You can make it more loose by using a larger carrier size. Use the largest one that doesn't leak when at rest. Test the size without any powertube shims installed.

[MagModderMatt]

Other guys have good point..

You should keep the air pressure to your RT, Emag, X valve up in the 900psi range, otherwise it has trouble recharging, and will not shoot as consistantly, The oil sugjetion along with the Upped air pressure from the tank, (not velocity) then shoot it with no barrel and no paint (into a paper towel) about 30-40 shots to get all excess oil out before you shoot paint. the gun will be fully lubed. that should free up all the internal parts. (apply the oil to either your ASA or if you have a quick disconect, apply it to the female side of the quick release, so the oil will go through the whole valve.
I know 2/3 of this has been stated by others. I think your tanks air pressure may be holding your valve back. I dont know if you are usto LP guns or what, but automags are HP and need at least 850 psi in the X valves or RT valves 950 is better. I do not know if you have an adjustable regulator (other than the valve itself) a armageddon, flatline, any HP regulator. set it's psi up high. It will not hurt the valve, they can take 3000psi. so if you can, set it around 900psi going to your valve, along with the o-rings and 3-4 drops of oil etc.
should fix your problem, and X-valves do become more consistant the faster you shoot, not by much though they are very consistant valves at any ROF so dont set its fps to low.. you will be at a disadvantage to other players.

Good luck, mags (once you get the kinks out) are very reliable as long as you clean it after every day of playing.

Matt

[skyless]

I had issues when i first started out too. my mag would function fine then after taking things apart not changing anyghing or it would give me problems like bolt not reseting, ended up just being the tightness of the screws holding the grip frame to the body. Too tight will cause issues. found that if i shot the marker and adjusted the screws while i was shooting i found the correct tightness to keep things in line. Hope this helps.

Feel free to correct me if im off on this one.