x-valve goes nutz (been hanging around that shady rt)

[dontfconmigo21]

Well, it looks like my x-valve has bit the dust along with my classic rt. It has the same problem only to an extreme. I aired it up, and it went full-auto. I didn't even pull the trigger.

Is it possible the problems I am experiencing are due to the on/off? I remember trying to remove the valve on both the rt and the x-valve without pulling the trigger (because I was being an idiot). Is it possible that I bent my on/off pins? Then again, I took both on/off assemblies apart and they looked fine.

I have been told that my problems are due to the regulator piston, but I'm not getting any leaks out the back of my regulator.

Also, if I slap my minimag valve on, I have a perfectly good shooting mag (so I'm 95% sure the problems are in the valves).

[BigTrucker]

ummm are they pneu mags?? if so the ram might be to far forward and you might need to set the ram back a little. Thats the only experience I had with run away mags

[dontfconmigo21]

They aren't not pneumags. The x-valve has lvl10, and what appears to be a ult on/off.

The rt valve has lvl7, and an rt on/off

UPDATE: I just totally broke both markers down with the aid of the rt video. I oiled everything, including the on/off o-rings. The x-valve is now only a run-away when the trigger is depressed. Interestingly, if I hold the trigger down on the x-valve, it fires about 5-6 times a second like clockwork.

So, that seems to point to a leaky on/off? The thing is, both on off assemblies have been graciously oiled, and the orings looked just fine (I suppose it is possible that they aren't).

So, let me hear what you think! I'm still curious as to how the regulator piston could cause this problem.

[olinar]

Im not sure what to tell you besides check to make sure everything is in spec.

Maybe take some pictures of the valves.

I was going to say check your sears but the marker works with a different valve so sears are out, maybe your bolts?

on/off pins are more than likely the problem, unless you forgot to add a piece back in after tearing down. Ive had that happen to me before....

[dontfconmigo21]

Im not sure what to tell you besides check to make sure everything is in spec.

Maybe take some pictures of the valves.

I was going to say check your sears but the marker works with a different valve so sears are out, maybe your bolts?

on/off pins are more than likely the problem, unless you forgot to add a piece back in after tearing down. Ive had that happen to me before....

I'll check for missing parts again, but I was extremely methodical when I stripped the markers down (because I wanted to check for missing pieces).

But do you think it is the on/off pins specifically? or the whole assemblies?

By the way, I don't think the x-valve has the ule trigger pull kit, I just realized the assemblies that come on the rt pros look different from the original rt classics. Thanks for the help so far guys, keep it coming.

Also, if I were to take pictures, what would you want to see?

[Wickwire]

Add one shim to your LVL 10 (if you have one) setup. Sounds to me like the sear isn't "catching" the bolt.

[MondoMor]

I've got a similar problem with my Level-10 RT Classic. Lazy, half-stroking 1-2cps "full auto" when pulling and holding the trigger.

I was sure the on-off o-ring was bad, so I tried an experiment: I put the valve assembly in the gun without the bolt and bolt spring, and gassed up the marker while holding the trigger. No leak. So the on-off o-ring is fine.

The only other path to the firing chamber (when the trigger is pulled) is past the o-rings on the valve pin, but no matter how I rebuild or relube my pin, I still get the full auto.

It does go away if I turn in the reg adjuster. Unfortunately, velocity is ~320fps.

The full-auto seems to go away at a lower pressure when I run the yellow (vs. the red) spring, but I haven't had the patience or air to chronograph it.

[flyingpootang]

The x-valve has lvl10, and what appears to be a ult on/off.

Remove 1 shim at a time from the ULT until it stops going full auto. The problem is with too many ULT shims will shorten the pins length, will not allow for the on/off to fully close, which will cause the full auto.

Add one shim to your LVL 10 (if you have one) setup. Sounds to me like the sear isn't "catching" the bolt.

Adding a shim to the L10 will only change when the bolt vents for the anti chop.

[dontfconmigo21]

well, I've confirmed that both the rt valve and the X-valve have the rt assy. However, the pin lengths are very different! They seemed really short too. Perhaps I inadvertently shaved my on/off pins when trying to take the valves off?

Oh, and how to you change the trigger rod length? It seemed to not want to be changed.

[secretweaponevan]

well, I've confirmed that both the rt valve and the X-valve have the rt assy. However, the pin lengths are very different! They seemed really short too. Perhaps I inadvertently shaved my on/off pins when trying to take the valves off?

Oh, and how to you change the trigger rod length? It seemed to not want to be changed.

You change the length of the trigger rod by un/screwing it into the clevis. Engage the safety, gas up the marker, you want the thickness of a credit card between the trigger rod and the back of the trigger.

RT on/off pin length should be right at .750".

http://www.automagsuk.com/classicandrt.html

[flyingpootang]

well, I've confirmed that both the rt valve and the X-valve have the rt assy. However, the pin lengths are very different! They seemed really short too. Perhaps I inadvertently shaved my on/off pins when trying to take the valves off?

Oh, and how to you change the trigger rod length? It seemed to not want to be changed.

You need to measure your on/off pins with calipers. They range in lengths usally @ .710 & up. The ones I use in my non Emag Xvalves are @ .750 In my Emags @ .712 Go with a linger one and that should cure your problem. If don't have Emag lowers and calipers invest in a ULT instead. The length of the pin is controlled by adding or subtracting the ULT shims and give you a lighter trigger pull.

[secretweaponevan]

You need to measure your on/off pins with calipers. They range in lengths usally @ .710 & up. The ones I use in my non Emag Xvalves are @ .750 In my Emags @ .712 Go with a linger one and that should cure your problem. If don't have Emag lowers and calipers invest in a ULT instead. The length of the pin is controlled by adding or subtracting the ULT shims and give you a lighter trigger pull.

Yeah, I think you nailed it. Especially if these valves were bought used and/or from a parted gun.

A too-short on/off pin would allow pressure to reach the powertube before the sear caught the bolt. The on/off pin would be putting pressure on the sear, slowing the bolts speed too.

The correct on/off pin length along with the correct 1/16" gap between the back of the trigger and the trigger rod should fix your problems.

[dontfconmigo21]

Yep, I measured the pins and they were 11/16" and 5/8" for the X-valve and the RT respectively. Both lengths are WAY under spec. I called agd and they confirmed I should replace the pins. Hmmm, now I have to figure out if I should Jump for the ULT kit, or just grab a new rt on/off pin . It really never ends with mags.