Congrats, I think I just screwed up my Xvalve! (see pic)

[Hook]

I have this nsty habit of removing the spring from the valve whenever I'm done playing for a few weeks. Well that just bit me in the proverbial behind today.

I wanted to adjust the set screws on my trigger, so I gassed up WITHOUT PUTTING BACK THE SPRING.

That of course made a loud, unpleasant clanking sound as the bolt rushed forward, with no spring to hold it back. I thought to myself "Congrats dumbass, you've just screwed up your valve!"

Upon examining the valve, I noticed that the bolt scuffed the powertube. The scuffs are very light, and the marker chuffed initially a couple of time after reassembly.

I applied some Dow 33 grease on the powertube and everything seems to work fine, at least when I dry fire.

Did I screw up my powertube? If so, what can I do to fix it?

See the folowing pic of the scuffs:

[anthrakz]

The tube is fine as long as it isn't bent out of shape, which it doesn't seem to be from the pic. A few scratches isn't going to mess up the powertube, it'll develop scdratches on its own anyway from regular use. You may want to check the lip that the bolt spring sits up against on the inside of the body to see if it's been mashed any from the bolt hitting it without the benefit of the spring to slow it down.

[Hook]

I'll have to go down to the field tomorrow and test it out at the chrono to see if it still fires fine with paint.

Could I, say, 'polish' the powertube with 2000 grit to smooth it out? I know many Tiberius owners are polishing their internals that way. I thought of this since the Tiberius Tac8/9 both share blow forward designs like Automags.

[mostpeople]

Silly canadian, dont remove your bolt spring next time

On the bright side, my guess is that you didnt mess it up, looks a little scuffed and therefore rougher to the touch am I right? Send that pic in an email to AGD and see what they say, hell if its still in warranty, they might just replace the tube and be done with it.

good luck you silly canadian!

[Pneumagger]

If you have access to a lathe...

Chuck the powertube up in the lathe and run it at medium speed. Use either some polishing compound and buffing pad or ultra fine wet sand paper (1000/2000 grit) and it should shine right up if the scuffing is only superficial. DO NOT remove any measurable amount material.

[FiXeL]

Doesn't matter. Eventually the valve will get skuffed anyway so don't worry about it. I have a valve that has markings similar to yours from regular use.

[Ruler_Mark]

that exterior damage doesnt bode well for the lxl X bolt. I say check the bolt over with a good caliper to makesure it is all correct. same with the carrier.

[warpfeedmod]

tube looks fine, but I'd be more worried about that retention ring inside the body that usually has the spring pushing against it. Check that to make sure the bolt didn't mash that up any...

[Hook]

I did a thorough checkup and everything looks fine (thankfully)

I will be playing this weekend, so hopefully she'll perform well as it has in the past.

Should I still give it a light sanding/polishing to remove the surface burrs or should I wait and see how it performs with paint? I've dry fired it until I emptied my tank (it had 1500 psi left) and it didn't skip a beat.

[Mime]

I think us Canadians have a problem with putting things back were they belong
A couple days ago I aired up my marker without putting the power tube cap on ( the gold screw in thingy)

yea that didnt work to well.

[Hook]

Well, I duked it out on the field this weekend and spent nearly half a case of paint throughout the day, including about 400 balls of brittle, year-old RPS paint.

I'm happy to report that the valve performed beautifully, like it always had in the past. Not a single break or chuff. So I guess those surface marks on the powertube are superficial after all and don't affect the performance.

The only issue I had was with the old paint jamming in my Halo B, but that's to be expected when you use old leftover paint

I'm relieved!