AO: We are back from the dead... again! After an 18 day outage, we are finally alive and well. Who knew how complicated updating software/databases from 2008 would be. I still have alot of tweaks to make, but my main goal was getting everything patched and updated to 2026.
Vbulletin 6 has changed alot since 2008 so we will have a ton of new features to dig into.
I've toyed with the same idea, but the reg. valve pin is the difference between the two valves. The reactive valve is machined different to take the spring pack type pin. And I believe that other small changes such as a bleed off vent hole were designed into the reactive valve. Best bet is to sell or trade the classic and look for a RT Pro valve. then add a level 10 bolt and a ULT trigger. This properly tuned will give you a screaming fast and light trigger pull. The conclusion I reached was that it may be able to mod the classic but not cost effective. I've also put an RT on/off in a classic and it made no real difference.
I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?
The top speed of a retro valve is faster with a retro on-off than with the ULT. The ULT can make it easier to pull the trigger fast for some people, but a high input pressure combined with the proper setup can give you really fast reactive performance on a retro on-off assembly.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
No, modifying the trigger rod length does not help. It only changes where the trigger makes contact. It doesn't change the actual pull. Changing the trigger rod length can cause issues if done incorrectly. Typically you want the trigger almost touching the trigger rod when gassed up.
One thing you can do to make a nice crisp trigger feel, is to shim the side of the trigger. It removes any side to side movement and provides a more positive feel with less wasted energy.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
Comment