X-valve won't R/T

[Elemental]

I usually run my mech mag with a nicely tuned ULT (it came that way), but sometimes I feel the urge to drop in the r/t on/off and sling some paint. However, when I tried it, all it did was make the trigger pull harder and I couldn't get it to R/T. I'm running the gun a a high pressure Crossfire 70/45 (which has about a 850-psi output). Any advice?

Also, FYI, my e-mag r/ts with no problem in mech mode with the same tank.

[jade_monkey07]

I usually run my mech mag with a nicely tuned ULT (it came that way), but sometimes I feel the urge to drop in the r/t on/off and sling some paint. However, when I tried it, all it did was make the trigger pull harder and I couldn't get it to R/T. I'm running the gun a a high pressure Crossfire 70/45 (which has about a 850-psi output). Any advice?

Also, FYI, my e-mag r/ts with no problem in mech mode with the same tank.

Just as i was told. some valves dont RT as much as others. i have, or had 4 x's and 1 retro and they all feel completely diffirent. Some bounce like crazy even with 700 psi input and others need upwards of 1000 to get it giong. one thing that makes a BIG diffirence is how broken in the on/off is. the more you use it the nicer it will feel.

[questionful]

Maybe it's the on/off pin length. Shave it a bit or buy a new one that's shorter.

[Spider-TW]

You need to do one of two things:

You need a higher input pressure of at least 900 psi with good flow (900 starting pressure with big drop-off doesn't get more than two or three RT shots.

Or add some ULT shims to your RT on/off, which is similar to grinding a little off of your on/off pin as questionful suggests, but it is reversible and more accurate than any dremel made.

I think www.zakvetter.com is still the basic guide for RT fire.

Some people have shimmed the ULT to the point of RT, but the description sounds more like auto fire. By shimming or shaving, you're cutting into your sear lockup (making it smaller) at the point that the valve recharges. If you put it on the edge, the tip of the sear hits the edge of the bolt all the time and that can wear on them both.

I prefer higher input pressure because you get full sear lockup and you can control the RT rate and sweetspot with an adjustable reg, usually avoiding any ref questions. But adjustable regs are not practical for everyone.

[MoeMag]

I have dumped up to 1200psi into my X and no RT rapid. Like said before... they have a personality. I have blown thru about 5 maxflo regs trying to get mine to do it... thats why just about every maxflo I have sold has come with a busted output gauge. lol!

Tho putting the shim in the RT asm... hot dog. never heard of that. gonna have to try that.

[Spider-TW]

I have dumped up to 1200psi into my X and no RT rapid. Like said before... they have a personality. I have blown thru about 5 maxflo regs trying to get mine to do it... thats why just about every maxflo I have sold has come with a busted output gauge. lol!

Tho putting the shim in the RT asm... hot dog. never heard of that. gonna have to try that.

Wow, 1200 from a maxflo ought to be kicking back hard. Is it an RT on/off?

[viper-mayhem]

I have an X valve and can not get it to RT at 1100 psi. If I was to shave it, how much should be skimmed off? The pin should be .765, could I go to a .750?

[Spider-TW]

I have an X valve and can not get it to RT at 1100 psi. If I was to shave it, how much should be skimmed off? The pin should be .765, could I go to a .750?

Hmm... my stock X valve on/off pin measures .750. I heard of 2 ULT shims in a stock RT on/off making the difference and 5 not enough for a HP tank. Idk the thickness of the ULT shims (its around here somewhere), but with pins on my classic valve pneumag with an Rt on/off the .712 pin works but nibbles on my level 10 bolt. I wouldn't put more than .025 worth of shims with a stock on/off.

An emag quad oring in the on/off is like adding about .020 to the pin length; my pneu couldn't even breathe with the quad oring and a .750 pin. It would shoot once in 10 seconds.

Also, I've had 1100 psi from a 3k flatline reg into an X-valve and all I could get was one or two RT shots after the first. A well lubed maxflo (not micro) usually works well.

Make sure your trigger rod hinge, sear pin, and trigger pivot are good and loose. You might try a different lube or on/off top orings too. The on/off needs to be pretty free to move.

[viper-mayhem]

I tried using all of the shims from my ULT and RT on/off and could get it to fit into the CF body. Then took out shims one by one until it fit an still nothing. It's still pretty new and the on/off pin in side doesn't slide that freely. I'll start using the RT on/off and get it worn in. I don't have the adjustable tank reg anymore so no I have to use a preset HP @ 850psi. I want to try shaving my pin to get it to RT. Do you happen to know that spec? Thanks, V-M

[TheRock]

What spring are you using for the lvl10? ive noticed that gold/shortest is easiest to get rt with red and grey spring is impossible to rt for me and a friend of mines xvalved tacs even with 1200psi from a maxflow.

I went pneu instead and using grey spring and being happy now with speed and gentle pinching of paint

[Spider-TW]

What spring are you using for the lvl10? ive noticed that gold/shortest is easiest to get rt with red and grey spring is impossible to rt for me and a friend of mines xvalved tacs even with 1200psi from a maxflow.

I went pneu instead and using grey spring and being happy now with speed and gentle pinching of paint

I use the gold springs also. The longer springs use higher pressure in the valve which creates more sear holding force. By the time you pull hard enough to free the sear it's too hard to for the RT effect. I think this where the shims help. As an experiment you can put a little grease around the bolt lip where the sear catches.

There does seem to be a wear in with it all. One day I thought I had it 'kinda' worked out to start with, but by the middle of the day it was a little too easy to RT.