ULE MAG wont stop chopping paint please help

[will_coop]

i cant get my ule mag to stop chopping paint. i find the right insert in my freak, believe i have the lvl 10 set up right any bigger spacer nad it leaks and smaller and it sticks. try to shoot around 280fps. any tips or suggestion would be great.

[michbich]

Try using a long lvlX spring.

What i do to check the bolt strenght is: remove the barrel and put something like a spatula against it. Pull the trigger, do you feel like the force pushing the bolt is too hard?

[Spider-TW]

Other than the spring, a good oil can help. I've been using superlube, but it is a little thick (I guess that's why it stays on ).

I've had lvlx orings that were either old or exactly the wrong size, with one carrier too loose and the next one too tight. I tossed it out and started over, which is a little disappointing. For the last few cases, it was so loose I couldn't believe it was still sealing and it ran sooo smooth.

[dark blade]

im just going to point out that tuning a level 10 does not only have to do with tuning the spacer and the spring. These two only effect the pressure in the valve at your velocity (spring), and makes it more or less efficient and resistant to bolt stick (spacer and o ring)...

if you want to tune your level 10 for chopping you need to tune the amount of shims in your bolt. Take the powertube tip off and there should be spacers between the carrier and the tip.

Take a look in the stickies and check how to tune this because it would be easier than me explaining it.





Good luck and this should most definitely fix your problem because it always fixes it for the markers i work on.

Sincerely,
Dark

[secretweaponevan]

im just going to point out that tuning a level 10 does not only have to do with tuning the spacer and the spring. These two only effect the pressure in the valve at your velocity (spring), and makes it more or less efficient and resistant to bolt stick (spacer and o ring)...

if you want to tune your level 10 for chopping you need to tune the amount of shims in your bolt. Take the powertube tip off and there should be spacers between the carrier and the tip.

I have to step in on this.

Shims are ONLY for eliminating bolt stick if the bolt fails to reset completely after encountering a jam (level 10ing).

The carrier and spring are exactly what controls the force that the bolt encounters before it will reset.

Quick tuning instructions:

Remove all LVL 10 shims.
Pick 1 carrier o-ring and stick with it.
Use oil.
Use #2 carrier (2 lines, no dots).
Shoot 1000 shots to break in o-ring.
Move broken-in o-ring to largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Use red spring for 285 fps. Use longer spring for higher velocity or to be more gentle (fragile paint), shorter spring for lower velocity or to be less gentle (thicker shell).
If bolt sticks after encountering a jam, add a shim.

[Spider-TW]

Shoot 1000 shots to break in o-ring.

I have used some fine automotive polishing compound and a steel shaft that fit the oring to polish the mold ring off the inside a couple of times now and it seems to have saved me the trouble of adjusting my carrier in the middle of the first day of play with it.

It's handy if you have that sort of junk in your garage.