Hard Trigger Pull vs. Light Trigger Pull

[Bagheera]

Okay, I have to admit it. I'm sooooo old school, I actually prefer the harder trigger pull of a classic 68 with the notched brass in the on/off vs. the newer style 68 brass piece.

However, now my question is; is the notched brass piece in the 68 responsible for the harder trigger pull? I am working on a pistol that is using the newer style 68 mag on/off, and wasn't satisfied with the soft trigger pull, preferring instead that hard snap (like a trigger in a real gun), so I swapped in the entire A.I.R assembly (on/off included) from my vintage 1992 68 Automag, which was doing duty in the Park-52 Mag. However, now I'm going to get the soft trigger pull in the Park-52 Mag, which I don't want, so i was wondering, are there any other parts that contribute to hard vs. light trigger pull, or is it only the tiny brass piece in the on/off assembly that determines the hard/light trigger pull?

[Spider-TW]

The top doesn't contribute to the trigger force, just recharge flow. The shape of the on/off pin (classic, RT, ULT) affects it by the amount of pressure balance applied. Maybe you had some old stiff orings (or teflon) in there instead of a new soft urethane (?).

The other part you will feel is the fit of the sear to the bolt lip. If you have one that is sharp and angled back, you can end up pushing the bolt backward slightly before it releases. A sear worn back toward will not hold as tight (or as well). A worn bolt lip will be easier also. These aren't usually a problem, but we're talking old right?

[Bagheera]

Definitely old and well used, but still rockin. When not firing like a madman, I like to fire in the old (real firearm) style of squeezing a trigger, not snapping it. I think I'll throw in some teflon rings and see what happens.