Learn me on EgoMag

[Redbeard the Pirate]

Other than making mounting a PITA, could you mount ego lowers directly to a ULE body, as in, no rail? I'm thinking it would be far superior for weight and size.... Can anyone think of why this would not work?

Are any Ego lowers superior in terms of adapting to the mag?

I'm thinking this could be a really killer project!

ego + mag... why did I ever get rid of my mag in the first place

Pics of the internals of an egomag would be fantastic!

[B-Pow]

Other than making mounting a PITA, could you mount ego lowers directly to a ULE body, as in, no rail? I'm thinking it would be far superior for weight and size.... Can anyone think of why this would not work?

Are any Ego lowers superior in terms of adapting to the mag?

I'm thinking this could be a really killer project!

ego + mag... why did I ever get rid of my mag in the first place

Pics of the internals of an egomag would be fantastic!

I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but you will need the rail if only just to hold the sear.

Otherwise there is no way to hold the bolt back and work the pin...

[Toll]

If you had an electronically actuated valve you could lose the rail...Though if you can do that its a pretty neat trick.

[Spider-TW]

Search through the Workshop forum. Nicolai has a nice thread going.

[Redbeard the Pirate]

Thanks for the input guys!

I've checked out all the egomag threads I could find and got some fantastic ideas!

the idea I'm thinking of is using the solenoid to directly hit the on/off of the valve, thereby eliminating the need for rail or sear... Come on guys, kick me and tell me why it wouldnt work!

[Spider-TW]

With no limits on battery power and grip space, you're good to go.

The main problem with electro mags is balancing the force required by the sear and on/off with the size of the solenoid and the power (and number of shots) required. Even if you split the action of the on/off from the sear, you still have to supply the power.

I always liked the idea of a miniature MQ valve in the on/off cavity, using a scenario dreams t-board in 'closed-bolt' mode to control the two solenoids... maybe

[Redbeard the Pirate]

With no limits on battery power and grip space, you're good to go.

The main problem with electro mags is balancing the force required by the sear and on/off with the size of the solenoid and the power (and number of shots) required. Even if you split the action of the on/off from the sear, you still have to supply the power.

I always liked the idea of a miniature MQ valve in the on/off cavity, using a scenario dreams t-board in 'closed-bolt' mode to control the two solenoids... maybe

That's kinda what I'm thinking, maybe throw a really really really lightly tuned ULT to lower the requirement of the solenoid... You don't think a standard 9v would be able to supply enough power for long term play?

If only I could find an xmag body and I could slap ego lowers onto them it would be the worlds most superior mag

[Spider-TW]

That's kinda what I'm thinking, maybe throw a really really really lightly tuned ULT to lower the requirement of the solenoid..

That seems to be the configuration of most successful electro mags, with a custom frame.

You don't see many because of that phrase you used - "a really really really lightly tuned ULT" - which are not very transportable from one mag to the next and the payback for your effort is not huge for a semi-only mode. I stubble around 10 bps on a pneu or an electro (without bounce) anyway. I'm about to try it out, but I hear 10 bps is within reach of a ULT by itself.

Younger players that started out on electros seem to be able use these triggers a lot better, in the 14 bps range.

[Dalm]

That seems to be the configuration of most successful electro mags, with a custom frame.

You don't see many because of that phrase you used - "a really really really lightly tuned ULT" - which are not very transportable from one mag to the next and the payback for your effort is not huge for a semi-only mode. I stubble around 10 bps on a pneu or an electro (without bounce) anyway. I'm about to try it out, but I hear 10 bps is within reach of a ULT by itself.

Younger players that started out on electros seem to be able use these triggers a lot better, in the 14 bps range.

I could walk my karni to 15 bps in semi and I'm close to my 40's but Im wondering if I can get close to 10 with the mag even with 6 shims in. Practice and time I suppose.

[warbeak2099]

the idea I'm thinking of is using the solenoid to directly hit the on/off of the valve, thereby eliminating the need for rail or sear... Come on guys, kick me and tell me why it wouldnt work!

Here's the kick. The sear not only hits the on/off, it holds the bolt back and lets it go. Get rid of the sear and the bolt will be pushed forward by air pressure constantly.

[secretweaponevan]

Here's the kick. The sear not only hits the on/off, it holds the bolt back and lets it go. Get rid of the sear and the bolt will be pushed forward by air pressure constantly.

That was what I was thinking too. However, ... with the right timing, the Solenoid could hold the on/off closed (bolt would rest shut via spring) and when trigger was pulled the mag would almost become a spooler. The timing would be tricky, the powertube area should be de-volumized and forget about LVL 10, but it possibly might work.

[michbich]

Without a defined dump chamber, wouldn't it make it a bit inconcistant? I mean, the only thing controlling the volume of air would be the speed of the solenoid.

[warbeak2099]

That was what I was thinking too. However, ... with the right timing, the Solenoid could hold the on/off closed (bolt would rest shut via spring) and when trigger was pulled the mag would almost become a spooler. The timing would be tricky, the powertube area should be de-volumized and forget about LVL 10, but it possibly might work.

No, the bolt is under air pressure BEFORE the trigger is pulled. Unless the noid stayed open and depressed the on/off all the time, this wouldn't work. And the noid staying open would drain the battery quite quickly.

[secretweaponevan]

No, the bolt is under air pressure BEFORE the trigger is pulled. Unless the noid stayed open and depressed the on/off all the time, this wouldn't work. And the noid staying open would drain the battery quite quickly.

Aye, but it is possible.

[Hilltop Customs]

Without a defined dump chamber, wouldn't it make it a bit inconcistant? I mean, the only thing controlling the volume of air would be the speed of the solenoid.

speed of the noid can be controlled by dwell. What cant be controlled is the flow rate of the reg controlling the input pressure. Simply this means that as ROF increases, velocity decreases.....unless the reg has absolutely no lag in regulation, which is not true for any regurlator because of design.

you need 2 things for consistant energy delivered to the paitnball(velocity): defined dump chamber volume and pressure. or defined dwell and flow rate at constant pressure. The first is easy, the second to truely be effective dwell would have to vary based on rate of fire to accound for the pressure drop as flow rate increases(because of rof).

simply put, if you want to make a mag work solely on the on/off you need excating controll of the on/off and also a program which varies based on ROF to account for flow rates.

+2 internets ito you, if you understand what I mean because I'm drunk and can barely understand what I typed right now