Emag help? Quad Oring?

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  • tarthal
    Registered User
    • Aug 2008
    • 47

    #1

    Emag help? Quad Oring?

    So do Emags always have quad orings. I got an old emag 1.31 Software thats been siting around for couple of years. Trying to get it back up and runing and i got it shooting just gives me alot of trouble in Mech mode but seems fine in Elect mode. And noticed that mine doesnt have a Quad o-ring and as far as i Remeber never has.

    In mech mode it seems to cycle the bolt twice or more when i pull the trigger. It does something else but i got to check tommorow when I get more air. Iam wondering if its me on the trigger since iam not used to mech guns. Had this gun for a month or 2 before the local field closed down and i Put it away. When i got back into it i bought my Self an Angel Speed then a DM7. Found this a love how it feels now to just geting it shooting right. Got a lvl 10 waiting but want to make sure its working perfectly with the lvl 7 bolt.

    Also noticed that the ON/OFF doesnt unscrew apart like ive been seeing on the AGD website. theres alots some marks on it looks like the Previous owner tried to get it apart as well. Remeber he bought this gun owned it for like 2 months then bought cockers and sold it to me for 400 with a Maxflo. But i remeber it working fine back then. Funny the Gun counter only has a little over 2000 rounds thru it.

    I also cant get the Regulator Valve Pin Assembly out either. I was just looking for orings to replace since i bought the oring kit.

    Thanks for any Help that can be given.
  • Spider-TW
    U R techno-literate!

    • Oct 2006
    • 3554

    #2
    The quad oring should reduce the friction in the on/off; it is not as tight as the urethane orings and the inner groove can hold a film of oil too. The pin length is shorter in an emag because the quad oring sealing surface sits lower on the on/off top than a urethane oring sealing surface. It is possible that the short pin still seals with a urethane oring though.

    Do you know what the ULT on/off looks like? Either way, you should be able to unscrew the top off of the on/off. A pic would help.

    For the reg pin assembly, if you haven't tried it, use a pick to pull the first oring out of the cavity. It looks like it just sits in there, but it sits right under the edge and holds everything in place. Then try pulling out the assembly with your fingers or some relatively soft pick (brass or plastic) through the pin hole. No scratches!

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    • tarthal
      Registered User
      • Aug 2008
      • 47

      #3
      Ok so looks like ill be ordering a quad oring or just a whole new ON/Off since i cant get this one to screw apart. The top is brass goldish color while the bottom half is silver which from what ive been reading is the normal Emag on/off.

      And I finally got the reg piston assembly out. It was really stuck in there hard Had to try a couple of times. And ye the part that was white that big oring is a translucent brown. So think I may just get me a new one of those to be on the safe side. The gun has been siting around for a good 5 years now that i think about it. Didnt realize how long it actually was.

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      • tarthal
        Registered User
        • Aug 2008
        • 47

        #4
        Ok so I went and put some Paint thru it. IN mech mode it fires single shots per trigger pull but every 2 or 3 shots it would cycle twice and fire 2 shots. Sometimes that second shot would either chuff and the paintball would go half the distance of the 1st shot sometimes it was good. This is a lvl 7 Bolt.

        In Emode firing slowly no issues bolt only cycled once per trigger pull. When I started to fire on as fast as I could it would chuff every once in a while seemed completely random.Also the paint was everywhere wasnt very accurate at all. To see if it was the paint or the barrel I put the same barrel and paint thru my DM7 and it was accurate as normal. Both guns I used a Myth reg tank on it. Suppose those regs are only puting out 650 tho i swore i was told the new batch are normal high pressure and not in the middle. So guessing theres another hint at what may be the issue with my mag.

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        • Spider-TW
          U R techno-literate!

          • Oct 2006
          • 3554

          #5
          Check with Dirty Bunny about your reg if you're not sure.

          I've never heard of an on/off base other than the stainless classic on/off that was not made from brass.

          On the extra shots, be sure and lube the orings in the base of the on/off. It's easy to forget they are there, but they are often responsible for sluggish action of the pin and can do some chuffing for you.

          Comment

          • flyingpootang
            Magtechian with X disease

            • Dec 2005
            • 2276

            #6
            Early emags and my gen 1 xmag came with a half brass half aluminum on off. As for tank output pressure it has to be at least a 750 output tank....

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            • tarthal
              Registered User
              • Aug 2008
              • 47

              #7
              ye i Lubed the 1 oring and replaced it. Actually went thru and replaced all the orings on it and made sure to well lube them all. Actually ordered a new off since i cant take this one apart and seems like the owner before me decide to try and use pliers to pull unscrew it so its got some marks on it. Also ordered a new piston Assembly cause the white well now brown thing needs to be replaced. From watching them take apart a Emag on Youtube it should have come out nice an easy. But i need to really really pull on it to take it out. Like had to put something thru the wholes and pull on it pretty hard. Ordered all the parts from Tunamart and his trigger so hopefully ill get a reply so to pay for it all.

              Comment

              • athomas
                Of course it works-its AGD
                • Jan 2002
                • 8039

                #8
                You have an older emag, which was released prior to the quad orings being used. Just put one in and it will work fine.

                The shot counters on the emags randomly reset themselves if the battery gets too low.

                If you are getting double fires when manually firing, your sear is probably worn.

                Make sure you use a bottle that outputs a higher pressure. As a level 7 you should be fine above 700 psi. If you install a level 10, you will need a full 800 - 850 psi for good performance.

                Chuffing on a level 7 could be a worn bolt spring causing bolt stick.
                Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                Comment

                • tarthal
                  Registered User
                  • Aug 2008
                  • 47

                  #9
                  well the bolt spring is brand new. Went ahead and ordered new on/off,piston assembly and quad oring. but no sear.... Also ordered new spring for my myth reg to get it up to 850 hopefully that alone will fix it. needs to hurry up and get here Iam really looking to playing it.

                  Comment

                  • tarthal
                    Registered User
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 47

                    #10
                    So dont know if my Sear is worn or not. Since ive never seen a new sear. SO heres some pics is it worn?





                    Comment

                    • secretweaponevan
                      Only HALF Polish!
                      • Sep 2007
                      • 1132

                      #11
                      I can't tell from that angle. How about a profile shot?

                      Comment

                      • tarthal
                        Registered User
                        • Aug 2008
                        • 47

                        #12
                        Here you go another angle.




                        Thanks for the help.
                        Last edited by tarthal; 10-16-2008, 01:58 PM.

                        Comment

                        • Spider-TW
                          U R techno-literate!

                          • Oct 2006
                          • 3554

                          #13
                          Looks good to me, a little crusty Make sure you don't have any more of that stuff on the sear linkage or in the solenoid. Get it all clean and lightly lubed (just a film), like you want it to stroke 20 times a second.

                          Having good pressure should change the operation significantly.

                          Does the sear pin fit pretty well? No noticeable front to back movement of the sear on the pin?

                          Comment

                          • maniacmechanic
                            PrestonCoPaintball
                            • Aug 2006
                            • 3453

                            #14
                            looks like new , the wear you look for is the angle on the bolt catch (? right word ) a nice sharp angle , rounded or chipped is bad

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