Assistance with Classic Valve recharge

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  • xero28
    Registered Useless
    • Mar 2008
    • 1102

    #1

    Assistance with Classic Valve recharge

    Hey all. I was finally able to test out my pneumag today, and it works! I've still got some tuning to take care of, but the trigger is short and light as I could hope for. Anyway, that's not what this thread is about, I just wanted let you all know. My question is this...When I was testing my pneu today (I'm using a classic valve with an RT on/off with quad o-ring, level X with two shims, biggest carrier I've got, and shortest spring, everything freshly oiled). Every time I would take a shot, it took about 1/8-1/4 second for the valve to recharge again. So basically it was: Shoot...wait...hear air rushing into chamber...click of sear...shoot. I have never had this problem before. The scuba tank I was filling off of was down to around 800-900 psi, maybe less. So I wasn't getting that many shots from a fill.

    Is the prolonged recharge because of the low air in my tank, or could it be caused by something else? Could this be from the sear hitting the MPA-3 and not being able to move forward enough to allow the on/off pin to open completely (As far as I can tell it's far enough back that the sear doesn't hit it, but I could be wrong)? Could it be something in my Level X? Shims maybe? That is another question I'm looking to get answered...What do the shims do exactly in the LX? When do you need more/less? Any help with these questions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • BiNumber3
    Dazed and Confused

    • Feb 2008
    • 1038

    #2
    if i were you id prolly stick a lvl 7 and a classic on/off n see if u still have recharge probs, if u do, then the prob lies somewhere else. Maybe a clog somewhere, or a prob with a tank (seems asa problems seem to occur pretty often too.)

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    • secretweaponevan
      Only HALF Polish!
      • Sep 2007
      • 1132

      #3
      Could just be bolt stick, but maybe not.

      Turn down your LPR pressure and actuate the sear by hand (or allen wrench) to see if your pneu's are the culprit.

      Shims should be added if your bolt fails to reset after encountering a jam. Too many will cause a leak down the barrel.

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      • flyingpootang
        Magtechian with X disease

        • Dec 2005
        • 2276

        #4
        Use a standard white o-ring instead of the quad o-ring. Also make sure you have a gap in between the trigger rod and the lever arm and your hitting the bottom of the sear arm....

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        • Spider-TW
          U R techno-literate!

          • Oct 2006
          • 3554

          #5
          If you use a quad oring, you need a shorter pin in an RT on/off. The sealing surface on the quad is low enough that the standard pin does not clear the seal far enough for a good (reasonable) recharge.

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          • athomas
            Of course it works-its AGD
            • Jan 2002
            • 8039

            #6
            Quad or bolt stick. Try a shorter on-off pin if you have one or try the original white small retro on-off top oring.
            Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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