x-valve/pneumag help needed! leaks air and wont fire

[guggi102]

Ok So I finally finished with my pneumag project I've had going on for like 6 months now. Heres what it is
x-valvew/ lvl 7
intelli penu'ed
Tickler LPR
and all the other little odds and ends.

Ok so now for my problems. I bought the valve off here, as well as the trigger already built. The LPR came with the trigger. With the gun all assembled, when I put the tank on it, the front of the bolt leaks a good amount of air. When I play with the trigger sometimes I can get the air leak to be far less, but it never seems to stop. The trigger pull seems stiff as well. The gun only actually fires randomly... say i pull the trigger 10 times, it may fire 1 times out of those 10 pulls. I guess I am basically looking for someone to walk me through setting my gun up and any other problems I may have. I'm even willing to possibly send it to someone on here that I know will set it up right and pay them but would much rather learn myself. Any help on where to start would be great, I want to use this thing!

[guggi102]

Ok so took the gun to the local pb store today and played with it for a bit. The LPR and pneumatics seem to be fine. The x-valve leaks down the barrel, and the sear/ ram doesnt seem to fire the gun. I switched back to the classic valve I had before and the leak wasn't there anymore like the x-valve did, but the gun wont fire. The ram is going off and hitting the sear but it doesnt fire. I have like an 1/8th inch of a gap between the ram and the sear... I dont get why it wont fire the gun... any suggestions?

[secretweaponevan]

Ok so took the gun to the local pb store today and played with it for a bit. The LPR and pneumatics seem to be fine. The x-valve leaks down the barrel, and the sear/ ram doesnt seem to fire the gun. I switched back to the classic valve I had before and the leak wasn't there anymore like the x-valve did, but the gun wont fire. The ram is going off and hitting the sear but it doesnt fire. I have like an 1/8th inch of a gap between the ram and the sear... I dont get why it wont fire the gun... any suggestions?

Take off the grips and actuate the sear with an allen wrench or something and see if it will fire.

If so, your LPR might be set too low (turn it up).

As for the barrel leak, that is almost always a powertube o-ring that isn't sealing or a powertube tip that is coming unscrewed.

Good luck and post back.

[guggi102]

I took the grip off and tried firing the gun manually and it still would not fire, its almost as if the sear isnt striking the right spot? Im not sure. Ive adjusted the LPR from totally off to max pressure and it still would not fire it... is there a clearance issue that I dont know of with a stock sear and intelli frame and everything when pneu'ing it? The powertube o-ring is what the guy at the store said as well, tried another o-ring but its stiffer and it didnt stop the leak either. Correct me if im wrong, but the sear hits the small push pin on the bottom of the valve firing it right? I just can't figure out why it wont fire at all. As far as the x-valve goes im about ready to send it out to someone from here who is very familiar with them to look at it and fix it and just know that its all set. Or if someone can show me where to get the parts needed to fix the x valve, I know the o ring and how to change it just want to make sure its the right one.... also how do I tell that the x-valve is shimmed right? I bought it off here and it came with no shims and the thought crossed my mind before but I again am not that familiar with it to know. any help is great

[guggi102]

nobody else have an idea what to do?

[Spider-TW]

If you have a level 7 bolt, there should be no shims in it, normally.

Perhaps your power tube spacer is too long, or the pneu ram is keeping the sear from fully latching the bolt. There should be at least a hair of a gap between the sear and the ram when you have air on the valve.

However, if you hold the sear back and you still get a leak, your on/off is leaking by and needs help.

If you can't pull the sear by hand, don't worry about the pneumatics.

The sear has three ends; one for the trigger rod or pneu ram which pushes it toward the back, one that holds the bolt in, and one that on/off pin pushes against. The on/off pin is always pushing on the back of the sear. When the trigger rod or pneu ram moves on the sear, it is overcoming the force from the on/off pin and the friction between the sear and the bolt lip. Before the sear lets the bolt release, the on/off closes the air supply to the valve body. This is why, if your on/off is working, you should have no bolt leaks after firing and holding the trigger down because there should be no air going to the valve. When the trigger or ram is released, the pressure behind the on/off pin forces the sear back up, where it will catch the bolt. When the bolt is caught, the on/off pin drops far enough to let air back into the valve body.

[guggi102]

alright just used my classic stock mag as a test for some of my parts. Its seems that my X is where the problem lies. With my X valve in the pneumag and air to it, the sear just moves around with no pressure on it, so what does this mean? I also put the x valve into the classic, and it shot once then would then would shoot once. So I guess i know my problem lies in my valve, is it the on/off located on the bottom that would cause the sear to be able to just move around?

[guggi102]

So if my problem was in my on/off then the the gun would leak down the barrel as well because the front of the sear isnt latching the bolt correctly right? I think im catching on haha.

[Spider-TW]

If you hold the trigger down, the on/off should be "off" and no air should be going to the bolt, which isn't being held by the sear anyway.

The x-valve may be super sticky or plugged somewhere. Used valves usually sit for a while before people decide to sell them, and that may be because it wasn't behaving well in the first place (not broken, just in need of cleaning and seals.

[guggi102]

I think it needs to be cleaned and oil and just a rebuild kit. I guess I will try it out and see how it goes.

[Watcher]

Try this. Take out the on/off and see if the on/off pin comes out as well. If it sticks in there quite hard it may mean that the o-ring up inside there has dried out. If you replace that and reinstall the on/off it should solve at least one if not all of your problems.

Mags, IMO, are incredibly complex in design and function, borderline near impossible to understand how everything works by just looking at it; but they are also incredibly easy to diagnose, repair, and maintain.

Take, for example, a car. Lets say it won't turn over. Whats wrong. Well, it could be that the spark plugs have no spark, the injectors aren't working, the intake manifold is clogged, the throttle body isn't working, the fuel pump is busted, the wiring is bad, the destributer is bad, the head gasket is bad, there is no compression so the rings are bad, the valves could be stuck open, etc, etc. Now narrow it down

On the mag, you say it is leaking out the barrel. Well, it is leaking out the barrel because the seal between the bolt and the powertube is bad. Why? Because the sear isn't holding the bolt back. Why isn't the sear holding the bolt? Because the on/off isn't working.
Why wouldn't the on/off work? Well, I doubt the pin is bad so it must be the o-rings.

If you think you can salvage the o-rings, put a drop or two of oil in the ASA and air up the gun and (try to) fire it a few times. If it gets better then keep doing it. If it doesn't improve then you will have to do some replacing...