Level 7 question

[Nom Carver]

I just purchased my first automag and was wondering what exactly the level 7 bolt does other than propelling the ball . I've heard all about the level 10 bolt, but haven't ever heard anything on the level 7 (probably for good reason I guess, since the level 7 is pretty old). Any info is appreciated, thanks.

Nom

[michbich]

The level 10 bolt is an anti chop bolt. The level 7 is just a bolt, it is not anti chop.

So when a paintball is halfway loaded, the bolt will chop paint.

[Nom Carver]

Ok I got that the level 10 was anti-chop, but the level 7 is just a bolt that they decided to name level 7 to make it sound all cool? It has no special purpose whatsoever?

[michbich]

There is a logic for the numbers, i just don't remember what they are.

And no, there are no # 8 and 9.

The level 7 bolt is just a normal bolt with no anti chop, that's all.

[MKing]

I also am getting my first Automag this week. It has level 7 right now and I will be using a qloader. Since the qloader feeds pretty well and since I play woods and do not shoot very fast is level 10 necessary? Can I still expect a lot of chops?
I wouldn't mind spending the money elsewhere if it is not needed.

[Looper]

Answers From the Top Dog...

http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=161698

[Watcher]

It is not truely needed but it is a good idea to have the level ten.

Me and my buddy play with warped 'mags each (he an e-mag and I a RT).
The only time he chopped was when he forgot to turn his hopper on and the warp starved. Piant was just rolling into the feedneck and the level 7 vs paint is like a bus with no brakes vs a raccoon. Generally speaking, automags are heavy hitters.

Same here, but since I had a powerfeed body it was lessened but generally speaking when the ball stack ended the marker started chopping. So when I ran out of ammo and didn't know it and quickly leaned out and bobbled the ball stack it shot spraypaint.

Right now I run with an ANS Phase II Venturi Bolt. It doesn't sit as far foreward as the level 7 (I've noticed you can see the face sticking into the chamber a bit from looking down the feed-tube. The Venturi is about flush with the chamber) so I feel paint has more room to fully enter the chamber and the ball cup is much bigger; it's the full face of the bolt, not just the small spot in the center.
It does seem to chop less than my friends E-mag with a level 7, but that could be the shooter or differences in the warp speed or anything.
I am planning on upgrading to a level 10, however.
Plus it is cool when you see kids checking to see if their eyes are working when setting up the marker and sticking their finger in the feedneck, you can be all "let me see if my level 10 is working" stick your finger in it and "tsst, tsst" pull it out and "pow! pow!"

As far as my understanding goes on the bolt types, it all started with level 1 and went up as changes/improvements were made. The level 7 was a step up from the foamy bolt, which had the same design only the face was recessed to make a foam insert. However the foam would be shot out all the time so they just made the solid faced level 7 and that was the norm for many markers.
The next bolt to come out was the Superbolt which was a delrin sleeved prototype which was never brought to fruition and eventually became the Superbolt II. They figured since it was so revolutionary they were going to skip levels 8 and 9 and roll with a more... level number. And thus the Level 10

On the whole, the only reason markers chop is because the feed rate cannot keep up with the marker cycle rate and/or the paint is really brittle. The hopper/loader should take care of the slow feeding and the level 10 takes care of the rest.

What kind of mag are you getting?

[MKing]

Rt pro with the long vertical feed. So the next step will be getting a left or right feed body to go with the the q loader.

I currently run a fairly maxed out tippmann a5
polished internals
low pressure kit
plamer stab
e trigger
delrin ventrilli front bolt

I am pumped to finally be getting an automag. I have wanted one for a while now.

[Nom Carver]

68 classic with classic valve, level 7, CP dropforward, SP linear barrel, air thru grip, On/Off ASA, and milled down feedneck.

Thanks for all the help everybody.

[Spider-TW]

The original 'levels' were levels of revision, not optional levels of performance, like looper's post shows.

The level 10 bolt was a big difference and optional, so there is one level 10 bolt and everything else considered 'level 7'. I have had four different bolts that were considered 'level 7', but they only differed in the sleeve length and foamie or not.

With a strong loader like the Q, you don't need a level 10 so much except when you get to the end of a load. If it is setup on a warp body, you may never chop. With a top loader like a halo, the only time you run dry is when you are 'busy' shooting, so it's more likely that you will catch a ball when it is dropping without the loader pushing it down.

On the other hand, cleaning out most loaders after a good chop is a pain.

[Spider-TW]

68 classic with classic valve, level 7, CP dropforward, SP linear barrel, air thru grip, On/Off ASA, and milled down feedneck.

Thanks for all the help everybody.

What kind of body?

[Nom Carver]

What kind of body?

right feed classic body.

[athomas]

level 7 referred to the upgraded AIR valve back in 1992 - 1993. The level 6 valve had a spring clip holding the powertube in place. The level 7 was the way we have it now. Level 8 and 9 didn't really exist but was generally accepted to be the 2 generations of retro valves. The X valve is the current generation, (X being 10) and the level 10 bolt was just referred to as "level 10" as it kind of coincided with the X valve.