X valve problem?

[om3n]

Hi I am totally new to mags, so please bare me as try to figure this out.

I just bought a used tac one with the xvalve, lvl ten, and a ULT, and when I got it, it had a small leak. I shot about 500 rounds through the gun with the leak, just so I could test it out and see how I liked the gun. Then I tried to figure out the leak. I deduced that it was coming from the front bolt/powertube, and I (with the help of some guys from pb nation) replaced the correct oring and the leak stopped. I then proceeded to take the gun all apart to see how it worked, and I (99% sure) put it all together correctly. (the only reason I am not 100% sure is because of my current problem...)

However, now when I put air in the gun, the leak stops, I can hear the gun cock, the sear engages, but when I pull the trigger nothing at all happens. There is pressure against the trigger, but the gun does not fire when I pull it. It just pushes back.

What is going on? Is there something I need to replace? I really like this gun, and when I was shooting it I LOVED how light the trigger was and how consistent it was :) I really want to get this gun up and working... so any help would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks guys

om3n

[Ruler_Mark]

http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

Re-tune your lvl X

[georgeyew]

With the marker aired up, try loosening the thumb screw a little and see if that helps. I've had that problem before where the screw was too tight and did not let the bolt move freely. The thumb screw should be hand tight. Try that first.

[om3n]

http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

Re-tune your lvl X

Ok I believe I have the lvl X perfectly tuned. The bolt comes off when I gently shake it upside down, but it will not come off when I simply hold it upside down, and there is no leak with this carrier. I am using a #2 carrier. The problem is still there; the sear engages and there is pressure against the trigger; the gun audibly cocks, but when I pull the trigger nothing happens.

Any other ideas?... I also did try loosening the thumb screw... no help

Also I tried using the stock on/off and the ULT on/off, and I have the same problem with both, but the trigger weight is much more with the stock on/off (obviously).

[Watcher]

Sounds like the sear rod is out of spec.

Check to see, when the marker is gassed up there should only be about a millimeter or the thickness of a note-card gap between the back of the trigger and the sear rod.

If there is a large gap or a lot of play in the trigger then it is probably that the sear rod isn't long enough and is not disengaging the bolt while just slightly lifting the on/off pin.

If it is gapped correctly don't touch it, the rod is tuned from the factory to have the best pull possible with no take-up and a quick pull.

What kind of trigger frame is on it?

[om3n]

Sounds like the sear rod is out of spec.

Check to see, when the marker is gassed up there should only be about a millimeter or the thickness of a note-card gap between the back of the trigger and the sear rod.

If there is a large gap or a lot of play in the trigger then it is probably that the sear rod isn't long enough and is not disengaging the bolt while just slightly lifting the on/off pin.

If it is gapped correctly don't touch it, the rod is tuned from the factory to have the best pull possible with no take-up and a quick pull.

What kind of trigger frame is on it?

Yep that looks about right- approx. a millimeter. If I take a small screwdriver and push the sear back as far as I can, the gun still doesn't fire.

EDIT

It has the stock frame.

Any other ideas?

[om3n]

Yep that looks about right- approx. a millimeter. If I take a small screwdriver and push the sear back as far as I can, the gun still doesn't fire.

EDIT

It has the stock frame.

Any other ideas?

Also, is there a good way for me to release all the air of out my system without just unscrewing the tank?... I have used up 2 orings so far

[Watcher]

If you have a remote line, use that for the testing. Your ASA doesn't have a bleed-off?

I was going to say unscrew the tank 3/4s of a turn then fire the gun a few times but you can't do that

Is the pin for the on/off installed correctly? Big side up for the stock on/off and the thin rod with the big side up for the ult.


This just dawned on me...
... try using a weaker spring on the bolt. Or turn up the velocity.

[om3n]

If you have a remote line, use that for the testing. Your ASA doesn't have a bleed-off?

I was going to say unscrew the tank 3/4s of a turn then fire the gun a few times but you can't do that

Is the pin for the on/off installed correctly? Big side up for the stock on/off and the thin rod with the big side up for the ult.


This just dawned on me...
... try using a weaker spring on the bolt. Or turn up the velocity.

I have tried turning up the velocity all the way up, and nothing. I am using the weakest spring I have; the gold one.

[om3n]

Guys I am getting desperate here I really want to like mags, but right now I am having an extremely hard time with this one and I as of right now I am not liking it at all

can anyone help me?...

[om3n]

Well here is everything I have tried.

-I pulled the gun totally apart, lightly oiled everything and put it back together with diagrams in front of me to make sure I was doing it right
-I removed and checked the sear to make sure it was not deformed in any way
-I tried using both the stock on/off and the ULT on/off and they both have the same issue
-I have tuned the lvl X to the best it could be
-I have even tried shooting the gun without using a front bolt spring just to see if that was what was holding it back from firing- it didn't fire without that spring
-I have tried turning up the velocity
-I have tightened/loosened the thumb screw
-I have tested my tank to make sure it is outputting 800 PSI


I am STILL getting the same problem- the gun will NOT fire

PLEASE help me

[Watcher]

Well, aside from something being put in wrong I can't see how it would not work.

Pull it apart again, and inspect every little part 5 times over.

Pull up a valve exploded view and make sure everything is oriented correctly. The brass reg seat, idk if that would be the problem but, check to see that the flared and cross-hatched side is facing the reg.
Pull out all the ULT and level 10 shims and start from scratch. If you have a level 7 bolt try that in the valve and see if it makes a difference.

Pull out the valve/reg pin and see if that is screwed up in any way. If the o-rings are cracked, dried, or brown then it could be gumming up something.

Do you have both o-rings on top of the on/off?

This may seem dumb but... is the sear in facing forward?

I wish I could help you more but unless you want to send me your valve I can't really help you aside from offering suggestions, but these suggestions are shots in the dark


Call AGD, their customer support number is listed on their site. You can probably arrange to have them fix/rebuild the valve.

I hope we can figure this out, once you get to shoot this thing for real you won't want to give it up

[om3n]

Ok here is something new... and I will address everything you just said in a moment.

Check out number ten...

I don't have one in my gun. I have tried using a tank oring, a piece of cardboard cut to the appropriate size, and both of those in place of that bumper made no difference. I am going to try to pick one up from a shop around here today if I can.

Well, aside from something being put in wrong I can't see how it would not work.

Pull it apart again, and inspect every little part 5 times over.

Pull up a valve exploded view and make sure everything is oriented correctly. The brass reg seat, idk if that would be the problem but, check to see that the flared and cross-hatched side is facing the reg.
Pull out all the ULT and level 10 shims and start from scratch. If you have a level 7 bolt try that in the valve and see if it makes a difference.

Pull out the valve/reg pin and see if that is screwed up in any way. If the o-rings are cracked, dried, or brown then it could be gumming up something.

Do you have both o-rings on top of the on/off?

This may seem dumb but... is the sear in facing forward?

I wish I could help you more but unless you want to send me your valve I can't really help you aside from offering suggestions, but these suggestions are shots in the dark


Call AGD, their customer support number is listed on their site. You can probably arrange to have them fix/rebuild the valve.

I hope we can figure this out, once you get to shoot this thing for real you won't want to give it up

Another question: is there supposed to be an oring inside the space where the on/off fits that the on/off pushes up against if that makes sense? Like if you were to pull the on/off out, this oring would be visible inside the hole where the on/off sits.

I don't have one, but if it fell out one time when I was putting the gun back together, well that could be the problem.

[jrod]

O-rings 22 and 23 should be inside the valve body, and then the on/off goes in.

And item 10 is just the bumper. I don't think it would prevent the valve from working.

[om3n]

O-rings 22 and 23 should be inside the valve body, and then the on/off goes in.

And item 10 is just the bumper. I don't think it would prevent the valve from working.

Wait a minute I am using the ULT. Should there be orings inside the valve body because I am not seeing any