Need some more MicroRT Y-frame help

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • xero28
    Registered Useless
    • Mar 2008
    • 1102
    #1

    Need some more MicroRT Y-frame help

    Hey all. I posted last week looking for help with my Y-framed MicroRT. Now I'm getting this: When I pulled the trigger, It seems like the sear doesn't fully reset. I had it about 1/16" from the trigger, and when I fire, it drops back almost flush with the frame, so pulling the trigger again does nothing. Sometimes the bolt wouldn't fully reset either. I put in the largest carrier to see if the bolt was sticking and adjusted the trigger rod until it was VERY close (but not touching) to the trigger. The bolt seems to be ok in resetting, but the rod is still not fully engaging the trigger after each shot. So I'd shoot, the rod would drop back, shoot again and get a few rapid fire shots (I guess it's RT'ing), then the trigger would go a bit limp for a second and be back. As always, any help is always appreciated.

    Thanks

    -X
    Tags: None
    • secretweaponevan
      Only HALF Polish!
      • Sep 2007
      • 1132
      #2
      Originally posted by xero28
      Hey all. I posted last week looking for help with my Y-framed MicroRT. Now I'm getting this: When I pulled the trigger, It seems like the sear doesn't fully reset. I had it about 1/16" from the trigger, and when I fire, it drops back almost flush with the frame, so pulling the trigger again does nothing. Sometimes the bolt wouldn't fully reset either. I put in the largest carrier to see if the bolt was sticking and adjusted the trigger rod until it was VERY close (but not touching) to the trigger. The bolt seems to be ok in resetting, but the rod is still not fully engaging the trigger after each shot. So I'd shoot, the rod would drop back, shoot again and get a few rapid fire shots (I guess it's RT'ing), then the trigger would go a bit limp for a second and be back. As always, any help is always appreciated.

      Thanks

      -X
      Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak (sounds like you did this).
      Add 1 shim at a time until bolt resets reliably after encountering a jam.

        Comment

        • athomas
          Of course it works-its AGD
          • Jan 2002
          • 8039
          #3
          Originally posted by secretweaponevan
          Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak (sounds like you did this).
          Add 1 shim at a time until bolt resets reliably after encountering a jam.
          It doesn't sound like its encountering a jam though. It sounds like a normal bolt stick situation.

          Remove all the shims from the powertube. Use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Always use the same white carrier oring when changing carriers. The carriers actually make change the inner diameter of the oring, which is why it is important to use the same oring each time. Try that. If it still bolt sticks, then use a different white carrier oring (it might be bad) and start the tuning process again.
          Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

            Comment

            • xero28
              Registered Useless
              • Mar 2008
              • 1102
              #4
              athomas was right. I changed the carrier to the largest one I had and the bolt is now returning on each shot. I posted up in a different thread, but I was looking at how the blade trigger on my Y has a small notch where the rod sits, whereas the blades on intellis doesn't. This seemed to be one of the causes for the rod not fully returning. I explained my thinking there, but have to get ready for work right now so I don't have time to do so now.

              Thanks for you resposnes guys.

              -X

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...