Micromag with retrovalve problem

[Darkspidie1984]

I just bought an Retro valve for My PTP power feed 68 micromag. The valve has no leaks but I am having trouble with its sensitivity. Let me explain. The sear pin is right on the trigger and I have to pull it very very slightly to get one shot, If I pull it any harder it goes into a very rapid full auto until I let go of the trigger. I think that the sear pin being too close to the trigger is whats causing it to be "too reactive" Does anyone know how to fix this problem? Evan where might you be with all of your mag expertise?

[maniacmechanic]

Trigger rod length and/or on/off pin length , sounds like one or the other need to be a little shorter

[Darkspidie1984]

Trigger rod length and/or on/off pin length , sounds like one or the other need to be a little shorter

thanks Hank. How do I adjust the trigger rod length? I can see that it is threaded but I can't seem to get it to budge one way or the other.

I'll put pics up as soon as i can find my camera.

[secretweaponevan]

thanks Hank. How do I adjust the trigger rod length? I can see that it is threaded but I can't seem to get it to budge one way or the other.

I'll put pics up as soon as i can find my camera.

First remove the sear assembly from the mag by unscrewing the sear pin from the micromag body (slotted screw, driver's side).

Someone might have put loctite on the pin's threads. If you see blue (or worse yet, red) on the pin's threads, try boiling it for a minute or two first to loosen the loctite.

Then:

Grab then end with a pair of pliers and screw it in while keeping the clevis from twisting/bending too much or else it will break.

[Darkspidie1984]

First remove the sear assembly from the mag by unscrewing the sear pin from the micromag body (slotted screw, driver's side).

Someone might have put loctite on the pin's threads. If you see blue (or worse yet, red) on the pin's threads, try boiling it for a minute or two first to loosen the loctite.

Then:

Grab then end with a pair of pliers and screw it in while keeping the clevis from twisting/bending too much or else it will break.

k I did that and it is better but I guess i won't know until i actually get a chance to shoot paint through it this weekend.

Oh and by the way Evan remember when i told you at the grand finale the gun was chuffing. Well i switched to a smaller spring and it seems to work fine now but now the level ten is a little more rough on paint. I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ***, I am just inherently good at it.

[secretweaponevan]

k I did that and it is better but I guess i won't know until i actually get a chance to shoot paint through it this weekend.

Oh and by the way Evan remember when i told you at the grand finale the gun was chuffing. Well i switched to a smaller spring and it seems to work fine now but now the level ten is a little more rough on paint. I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ***, I am just inherently good at it.

Usually LVL 10 chuffing is caused by 1 or more of the following:

Not enough oil (2-3 drops in the ASA and then 20 shots before a day's play is good)
Too tight a carrier (you want the largest that doesn't leak, not the smallest that will fire)
Too long a spring for the velocity you are using (turn up velocity, or use a shorter bolt spring)
Detentes that are impeding the bolt's forward movement.
Too tight a field strip screw (finger tight is fine, don't ape it)
Powertube tip that is loosened (this would be rare as it would leak first)

[Darkspidie1984]

Usually LVL 10 chuffing is caused by 1 or more of the following:

Not enough oil (2-3 drops in the ASA and then 20 shots before a day's play is good)
Too tight a carrier (you want the largest that doesn't leak, not the smallest that will fire)
Too long a spring for the velocity you are using (turn up velocity, or use a shorter bolt spring)
Detentes that are impeding the bolt's forward movement.
Too tight a field strip screw (finger tight is fine, don't ape it)
Powertube tip that is loosened (this would be rare as it would leak first)

Ill double check that all tonight after I get off of work. Thanks for the help Ill let you know.

[athomas]

Chuffing is almost always a carrier that is too tight. You can make other adjustments that will affect it, but they only affect it because the carrier is too tight and anything out of adjustment is too much for the sensitivity of the level 10 system.

Overtightening the field strip screws is one thing that does affect operation, especially in the aluminum bodies. It warps the alignment of the valve and body if there is not a perfect fit.