I can't figure this out

[stoffa15]

First let me say I've been tinkering with my mag for about 6 months now.I originally bout a stock 68 classic with a minimag valve. I've been playing with it for a while now and I'm not happy. It currently has a warpfeed, warp mainbody,ptp 45,cp 689 barrel. I took it out last sat and its a blender. I'm not even shooting fast but the marker is breaking paint like every 5 shots. I have no clue what is wrong with it. I've been switching in between bolts and springs. I'm not sure if the springs aren't long enough, the bolts I'm using is the wrong one(needs a bumper on the front) or the the warp is pushing the balls past the detent causing a half fed second ball. I want this marker to work sooooo badly. I'm not going to get the lvl X or X valve yet,cause my gf said no more buying for this year. lol

I have no pics of the bolt because i broke my camera.

the spring extends just past the bolt slightly and one of the bolts is flat where it makes contact with the ball and the other is extended out a little.

the balls are deffinetley breaking in the breach


help me please!!!!!!!!!!
lol
in my last game I broke my warp right off of the gun. I need to get a shell too \


HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[secretweaponevan]

First let me say I've been tinkering with my mag for about 6 months now.I originally bout a stock 68 classic with a minimag valve. I've been playing with it for a while now and I'm not happy. It currently has a warpfeed, warp mainbody,ptp 45,cp 689 barrel. I took it out last sat and its a blender. I'm not even shooting fast but the marker is breaking paint like every 5 shots. I have no clue what is wrong with it. I've been switching in between bolts and springs. I'm not sure if the springs aren't long enough, the bolts I'm using is the wrong one(needs a bumper on the front) or the the warp is pushing the balls past the detent causing a half fed second ball. I want this marker to work sooooo badly. I'm not going to get the lvl X or X valve yet,cause my gf said no more buying for this year. lol

I have no pics of the bolt because i broke my camera.

the spring extends just past the bolt slightly and one of the bolts is flat where it makes contact with the ball and the other is extended out a little.

the balls are deffinetley breaking in the breach


help me please!!!!!!!!!!
lol
in my last game I broke my warp right off of the gun. I need to get a shell too \


HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do you have the bad PF plug with the flat spot that causes chops or the good parabolic feed plug?

[stoffa15]

Do you have the bad PF plug with the flat spot that causes chops or the good parabolic feed plug?

I have a warp left mainbody

[eXo_oUtSiDeR]

what bolt do you have lvl 7 right? Are you shooting semi or rapid fire? Does you warp have a 12v mod? Mayne try replacing the detent.

[punkncat]

Does it have new or old style detents?

If this was a used marker, and has the old metal detents in the barrel, pick up some of the new plastic ones. They work much better.

Just an idea.

[eXo_oUtSiDeR]

Does it have new or old style detents?

If this was a used marker, and has the old metal detents in the barrel, pick up some of the new plastic ones. They work much better.

Just an idea.

i think it was a wl ule body so no nubins lol

[secretweaponevan]

I have a warp left mainbody

Are you using a 90* powerfeed adaptor like this:

If so, check the PF plug. Also as mentioned by eXo, check your detente. A bad detente will allow more than one ball to feed resulting in breaks and chops.

[Watcher]

If it isn't the detent problem (which I'm willing to put money on... more than one ball in the chamber = a chop every time) or the powerfeed problem, I'd say to check the dwell setting on the warp feed.

On the warp board is a set of 4 pairs of pins (lower left). Each one you match up with a shunt will shorten the dwell. The dwell should be short enough that it isn't spinning too long, but it should spin no less than a 1/4 turn on a "fire" signal (flick the button for a close estimate). If it spins too short it will partially feed a ball and it will be chopped. It would be the same result as if you forgot to turn on your loader or ran out of paint and "starved" the warp.

[stoffa15]

warp left body, no wire nubin, angel detents
the warp dwell i think might be a problem though
no 12 volt mod, and when i press the button to cycle it. It cycles a full revolution.
My 90 degree fitting is fine.

so where should i start first???


can you explain better woh to adjust the dwell, and does that mess up the sensitivity???

[trevorjk]

get a level 10 kit. guarantee it solves your problem. it just sounds like you have the classic of all classics that just hits the paint to hard. some say its caused by an issue with the powertube spacer. which if you want spend the $12 and mess around with it to possibly not get the results you want. or like i said, get the level 10.

[rawbutter]

Just another idea... it could be your paint. I was having similar trouble with my mag a while back... turns out my six-month-old X-balls just didn't sit well. As soon as I bought a new case, I was touble free. So if you've been using the same old case of paint for all these games, that could be your problem.

[Watcher]

warp left body, no wire nubin, angel detents
the warp dwell i think might be a problem though
no 12 volt mod, and when i press the button to cycle it. It cycles a full revolution.

can you explain better woh to adjust the dwell, and does that mess up the sensitivity???

It should be fine then, you just eat more battery life doing a full turn but it will feed the most reliably that way.

For adjusting it, the set of 4 pairs of pins have 4 matching plastic shunts. When you install the shunts going up and down on the pins it will shorten the dwell. If they are side-to-side they are neutral. The more shunts installed up and down the shorter the dwell. I run my warp with one bringing the dwell down and the rest neutral, but it can vary from warp to warp.

But if it is working fine they way it is you can leave it that way, this is just a way of maximizing battery life by getting the warp to spin as little as possble but still feed reliably...

The dwell has nothing to do with sensitivity, the little blue knob with an arrow on it controls the vibration sensitivity. Turning it to face up will lower the sensitivy requiring more vibration to spin it and turning it to face down will make it more sensitive. It could be that the sensor isn't sesitive enough and isn't feeding reliably on the gun.
To set that, turn it down until it starts feeding, then back it off until the motor stops and mark this location. This will be very reliable but will probably feed by just running or jiggling the gun. Now air up the gun, get paint, and start turning the knob up until it starts to misfeed and note that location.
Fine tuning takes time and patience but generally the best place to align the knob is right in the middle between constant on and misfeed.

I would still check your detent. It might have backed itself out or worn out and any time you double-feed or start to double-feed it will chop.
Also, as was mentioned, make sure your paint hasn't "turned".

[stoffa15]

get a level 10 kit. guarantee it solves your problem. it just sounds like you have the classic of all classics that just hits the paint to hard. some say its caused by an issue with the powertube spacer. which if you want spend the $12 and mess around with it to possibly not get the results you want. or like i said, get the level 10.

I wasn't having the problem with this blender mag until i put the warp left body on it. I'm not really ready to get the X valve or lvl X yet. I want it to work flawlessly before I spend the money for another upgrade.its a shame cause this marker is sooo sexy!!!!!

what I'm getting from everyone here is that the problem that I could be having with my setup is endless.
I want to eliminate them one by one so here we go.

I shoot mid level paint dxs bronze box
my angel detent seem to be ok but how do i check them????
the warp feed feeds one full rotation for every press of the button, I know this needs to be adjusted .

My theory is that when I'm firing the warp feed is putting to much pressure on the detent which is making the second ball half feed. does this sound right???

[Watcher]

My theory is that when I'm firing the warp feed is putting to much pressure on the detent which is making the second ball half feed. does this sound right???

That is very feasable. Take the body off and load a paintball. Try to push it past the detent with your finger. It should resist then "pop" past, if it just pushes past easily then it isn't adjusted right and you can tighten it down more.

It is also possible that it is in too tight and slicing the paintball. If the paintball really has to be pushed or flexes to get past the detent you can back it out.

If you think it is adjusted right, hook the warp up to it (still off the gun) and have the warp load it. Then push the paintball in the chamber out while spinning the warp and see if it is followed out by another paintball or pushed out. That would mean that the detent is just worn out and you need a new/different one.

[Spider-TW]

My theory is that when I'm firing the warp feed is putting to much pressure on the detent which is making the second ball half feed. does this sound right???

Very possible. Press the detent with your finger and see that it moves freely. It may just need to be turned in a little more. You just can't turn it in so far that the detent body drags on the bolt. Some paint is impossibly small though. Trying to stop paint that is sub 0.684 with a single detent and a strong loader is difficult.