Emag valve on/off doesn't trigger sear

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  • BigEvil
    www.BigEvilOnline.com

    • Feb 2005
    • 9333

    #16
    Originally posted by pk5
    I have not chrono it since i received a few weeks ago in a trade.

    Right now the quad oring seem to flake off a really tiny piece, so i'll order some quad oring and start with that. What is the name of the other oring that is outside the quad - oring?


    To summarize the symptom so far:

    i. The on/off got sticky and refuse to move up/down to activate the sear
    ii. After a few rebuild/relube of the on/off now it work fine and trigger the sear
    iii. But now i have major bolt stick, doesn't matter which carrier or orings i tried, it still either leak or bolt stick. ( Can it fire even if the carrier is oversize? As in it is leaking while firing?)

    Right now i am waiting for some more oring carrier from MANN and gonna try the carrier/oring part again.

    Since i am ordering stuff from AGD, what else should i get? Which rebuild kit will work for an emag?

    Thanks
    If the quad oring fell apart it was probably dry rotted and most likely the cause of your problem.

    You want this guy

    Quad oring 4 pk

    and this guy

    On/off Top outer oring pt#123

    Comment

    • pk5
      Registered User

      • Jan 2006
      • 608

      #17
      Ok, i placed an order for that, plus all the other parts to rebuild a level 10.

      Anything else i should try in the mean time?

      Thanks

      Comment

      • secretweaponevan
        Only HALF Polish!
        • Sep 2007
        • 1132

        #18
        Originally posted by pk5
        Ok, i placed an order for that, plus all the other parts to rebuild a level 10.

        Anything else i should try in the mean time?

        Thanks
        As long as you have a variety of carriers, you won't need a full level 10 kit. Probably just a few carrier o-rings, perhaps the backing washer, and maybe a bolt spring or two if you feel yours are worn out.

        Never hurts to get some foamies if you use them.

        Comment

        • Smoothice
          Registered User

          • Nov 2006
          • 4579

          #19
          If you don't get this thing working by clareball just bring it with you. Between all the techs in our group we will have it up and running in no time.

          Comment

          • Smoothice
            Registered User

            • Nov 2006
            • 4579

            #20
            So you have 2 emag valves correct?

            1 works, the other doesn't. This proves that your emag lowers aren't the problem. Which is great news. So it must be the valve.

            Have you tried swapping out parts.

            For example: Take the on/off and on/off orings out of the one that works and put it into the one that doesn't work.

            See what happens. If the bad valve still doesn't work with a known to be working on/off then that probably isn't your problem.

            Keeping the working on/off parts in the bad valve now switch out the level 10 parts. Use all the parts from the working valve and put them on the non working valve. When I say all I mean all. Same carrier, shims, spring, bolt, etc.

            See if it works. If it still doesn't work then you may want to try cranking up the velocity to see if that does any good. Throw some oil in your asa and run some shots through it.

            If it does work after swapping out the parts then at least you know what piece of the puzzle is broken.

            Comment

            • pk5
              Registered User

              • Jan 2006
              • 608

              #21
              Ok, i after trying everything and i found a lot of quad oring at my local seals shop, i found out the problem.

              It turn out that the on/off pin that i have in one of the valve is longer than regular emag pin. It seem to be an RT pin that the previous user just stuck in there before selling it to me.

              Is there any temporary or easy fix to get the emag working? Or do i need to replace the on/off pin with an emag pin?

              Thanks

              Comment

              • pk5
                Registered User

                • Jan 2006
                • 608

                #22
                Can the RT on/off pin be trimmed with a dremel blade and then sanded smooth as a temporary fix?

                Comment

                • athomas
                  Of course it works-its AGD
                  • Jan 2002
                  • 8039

                  #23
                  Yes, you can shorten the pin. Make sure you do the small end, not the large one. Another less permanent fix is to add a couple of level 10 shims in between the on-off halves. It will do the same thing as shortening the pin.
                  Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                  Comment

                  • Smoothice
                    Registered User

                    • Nov 2006
                    • 4579

                    #24
                    Originally posted by pk5
                    Can the RT on/off pin be trimmed with a dremel blade and then sanded smooth as a temporary fix?
                    just grab a metal file. Give it a few rubs and give it a try. If you have some calipers it will help alot.

                    Make sure that you keep the top level. You don't want it slanted.

                    I had to do this once as well and it worked out fine. I used my dremel and it took off a lot of metal very fast. So be careful using a dremel.

                    Comment

                    • pk5
                      Registered User

                      • Jan 2006
                      • 608

                      #25
                      A rough and fine grit sand paper should be fine then right?j


                      UPdate: 5 minutes with a grinding wheel and it's all fixed

                      Thanks everyone
                      Last edited by pk5; 12-13-2008, 02:21 AM.

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