autococker help

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  • tribalman
    Registered User
    • Dec 2002
    • 719

    #1

    autococker help

    a friend recently bought 2 autocockers on ebay, i think they are both 2002s. one of them had a leaking hose and was an easy fix, the other is causing me some troubles. the only autococker experience i have is with my trilogy which doesn't have as complex of a 3 way assembly. on to my troubles....
    the autococker has what i assume are QEVs from looking at pictures online of them, plus they aren't just an inline screw like the ones on my trilogy. when we first aired it up it was leaking from the front QEV on the ram body. i figured the QEV was bad so i switched the front one with the back one. it still leaked.

    i figured that maybe the inline reg was maybe messed up and letting too much air in. i don't see a screw or anything to change the pressure. inside was a lot of goop. cleaned it up so there wasn't as much, just a small amount of lube left. i noticed the shims were all over the place, i put them so they were all going the same way }}}}}} but it didn't fix the leaking so i tried the other method of {}{}{}{ and it is still leaking. which is the correct alignment?

    i figure that maybe the qev just can't handle the pressure so i tried one of the hose connectors on my trilogy and now the gun is leaking from the front of the 3way body. i am clueless on how to fix this, any ideas? my friend and i were hoping to get this fixed by next sunday when we go paintballing again. thanks for reading and your help. if you need pictures i can post some up.
    e-mag 226
    flashed with 1.31
  • tribalman
    Registered User
    • Dec 2002
    • 719

    #2
    the trigger frame is a hinge frame. from closest to the trigger frame and inline to the farthest away i have the 3-way go to the back of the ram, to the lpr, then to the front of the ram. when ever i slightly air up the gun the back block pops back. the trilogy is setup the same way but it doesn't do that. and yes i am pulling back the cocking rod then pushing the back block forward before i air it up, as you are supposed to. i was playing with the 3-way coupler because i noticed that it was not setup properly. when i extend the timing rod little by little and slighty gas it up, it has now stopped hissing from the end of the 3-way and as started hissing from the back qev. i am i on the right path and just need to find the timing?
    e-mag 226
    flashed with 1.31

    Comment

    • Smoothice
      Registered User

      • Nov 2006
      • 4579

      #3
      if when aired up the back block goes back and stays back then you have your hoses in the wrong order.

      at least thats the problem i once ran into

      Comment

      • NoLifeLeft
        Gun Hoarder
        • Aug 2004
        • 158

        #4
        Originally posted by tribalman
        the trigger frame is a hinge frame. from closest to the trigger frame and inline to the farthest away i have the 3-way go to the back of the ram, to the lpr, then to the front of the ram. when ever i slightly air up the gun the back block pops back. the trilogy is setup the same way but it doesn't do that. and yes i am pulling back the cocking rod then pushing the back block forward before i air it up, as you are supposed to. i was playing with the 3-way coupler because i noticed that it was not setup properly. when i extend the timing rod little by little and slighty gas it up, it has now stopped hissing from the end of the 3-way and as started hissing from the back qev. i am i on the right path and just need to find the timing?
        If you hoses don't cross over each other (sounds like how you described it) that is the correct setup for a hinge frame. If your hoses are correct and your back block still locks back, your actuating rod (going from trigger frame to 3-way) is WAY out of adjustment. Adjust it until the back block goes forward with the trigger at rest and then start pulling the trigger slowly to adjust it so it goes back during the proper portion of the trigger pull.

        Comment

        • tribalman
          Registered User
          • Dec 2002
          • 719

          #5
          thanks for the comments. i think it is the actuating rod along with the trigger. i think the trigger pull is too short that the timing rod isn't moving enough to be put into the correct places and i think i might need a new o-ring on the actuating rod. i have tried switching the hoses and in both setups the back block doesn't go all the way back. partly why i think i need new o=rings on the rod.
          e-mag 226
          flashed with 1.31

          Comment

          • halB
            Registered User
            • Sep 2002
            • 953

            #6
            Try #60 orings. They worked for my pb/dye 3way.

            I had similarish problems with my cocker. It was the actuating rod being slightly bent that did it for me. I took a hammer to it, flattened it, and I'm good now.

            Comment

            • Watcher
              aka CavDragoneb12
              • Apr 2008
              • 867

              #7
              Looking at my slider framed 'cocker the hoses on the 3-way from front to back should go to the front of the ram, then the lpr, then the back of the ram.

              It should be reversed for the hinge frame, ie, the trilogy. Front of the 3-way goes to the back of the ram on the hinge frames.


              Actually, I wanted to reverse the hoses and offset the timing on my 'cocker so much that it became an open-bolt gun (bolt stays open, closes on start of trigger pull, fires on back of the trigger pull, opens on release) but I never got around to it.

              I might just not even screw around with it, probably not worth it.

              Comment

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