does a rt valve need adj hp?

[suaze]

I've got a pneu frame and minimag air valve with level ten & black spring. shoots about a ball a second because of the slow recharge i suppose. before i go and buy another valve, does the rt valve need adjustable hp like a max-flo? i'm not looking for the bouncing effect. i just want to be able to walk the trigger and actually have the balls shoot out at 5-9 bps.

thanks

[secretweaponevan]

I've got a pneu frame and minimag air valve with level ten & black spring. shoots about a ball a second because of the slow recharge i suppose. before i go and buy another valve, does the rt valve need adjustable hp like a max-flo? i'm not looking for the bouncing effect. i just want to be able to walk the trigger and actually have the balls shoot out at 5-9 bps.

thanks

You don't need an adjustable tank for an RT valve. 850 psi is fine.

1bps is slow. Very slow. Sandman could get 11bps on a single trigger frame with an AIR valve back in '92 or so. A Classic valve is capable of 13bps without shootdown.

In order to walk the trigger you will need an electro frame or a pneu'd frame. A ULE Trigger Kit comes close, but only pneu or electro frames are considered walkable.

[suaze]

my pneu frame works well. if i walk the trigger, the valve won't recharge after the first shot until i stop or really slow down. the valve worked fine with an autoresponse frame. could the pneu frame be an air hog?

[secretweaponevan]

my pneu frame works well. if i walk the trigger, the valve won't recharge after the first shot until i stop or really slow down. the valve worked fine with an autoresponse frame. could the pneu frame be an air hog?

It is most likely a problem with the pneu's. More than likely your MSV isn't venting properly. Check for a kink in the hose from the switch to the ram. Make sure you don't have a ULT in there either.

Do you have a QEV on the back of the ram?

[cyrus-the-virus]

No you don't NEED an adjustable HPA tank... actualy I've had an e-mag that would work on about 450-500 PSI with no real noticable dropoff.

[suaze]

i don't have a qev or ult. should i try installing a qev since it's the cheapest fix?

thanks guys for the info on the rt valve. most postings talk about bouncing the on/off which led me to believe that it required adjustable high pressure. i will try to use my minimag valve and tune my pneu frame.

[Spider-TW]

I had a classic pneu that ran as fast as anyone could stroke it. After two years, I swapped the valve out for an x-valve with ULT and now my stroke is all messed up! It works fine, but the lower trigger pressure changed the feel and I'm back to tripping over my fingers and exploding balls. I would go back except the classic valve went to a CO2 pump mag.

Check that there is a little clearance between the ram and the sear. I just use the same rules about the trigger and the trigger rod on a regular mag.

There is a little play in the lockup of the sear and the bolt and it can catch the bolt and not let the sear come all the way down under the on/off pin. I'm guessing you have an RT on/off. If nothing is different other than the pneus, then the recharge problem should have something to do with the on/off pin not clearing its oring far enough, which means the sear is not moving as far down (like being stopped by the end of the ram).

Use the clear bolt bumper with the level 10. The blue one can bounce the lighter bolt back hard and catch the bolt on edge.

[suaze]

thanks spider-tw. i think your right about the ram not allowing the sear to come back. the ram may have come loose. i'll take a look after work.

i'm running classic on/off, blue bumper.

[Spider-TW]

thanks spider-tw. i think your right about the ram not allowing the sear to come back. the ram may have come loose. i'll take a look after work.

i'm running classic on/off, blue bumper.

The RT on/off will let you drop the pressure going to the pneumatics, which lets you walk it easier. If you order one, go ahead and order a shorter on/off pin with it (around .728). Imho it's easier to test out the best pin length like that than with shims or grinding on a pin.

If you get it running well and start seeing scratches and dents on the edge of the bolt, try the clear bumper.

As long as your regulator and valve body gas holes line up (hopefully at the top - 12 o'clock), you should be able to hit 10 or 11 bps without any shootdown. Above that, you may have to fiddle with the on/off to get more gas through. Shorter pins give earlier and faster recharge, but you give up margin on the sear catching the bolt (up to the point of no catch at all - full auto).

[suaze]

yep, ram was too close to the sear therefore not allowing the on/off pin to come down sufficiently to recharge valve.

thx all