Spydermag project Begins, have questions

[Darkspidie1984]

OK so i read through several threads on here and pbn and searched and searched until I found the info i was looking for. I have a micromag and old spyder esp frame. I have decided not to go the route of TonyBhall or Luke and just flip my noid. First I was devising a way to operate the noid with the noid pin moving vertically to operate the mag sear in my micromag. I nixed that idea out of impatience and battery power issues so i just decided to flip it around in the other direction. I took the trigger rod off the sear and dremeled a channel into the top of the spyder grip frame to allow the sear room to rock up and down while the gun cycles. I cut the front of the grip frame to line up with the holes in the body of the PTP mag body . Everything has gone smoothly so far without any hitches and the frame bolts onto the body nice, easy, and securely.

However now I am faced with a slight dilemma. Trying to make room for the noid to operate and then mount it to the frame so it doesn't wobble around while playing. I was thinking of jb welding it after all was said and done to secure the noid. but then it would most likely become a permanent part of the Frame.

Does anyone have pics of the inside of their spyder frame who has done a similar mod to there frame? I found some pics on pbnation but they were horribly blurry. I 'll post up pics hopefully by late tonight. Anyone Have any thoughts to add?
*edit Added pics

[p8ntbal4me]

OK so i read through several threads on here and pbn and searched and searched until I found the info i was looking for. I have a micromag and old spyder esp frame. I have decided not to go the route of TonyBhall or Luke and just flip my noid. First I was devising a way to operate the noid with the noid pin moving vertically to operate the mag sear in my micromag. I nixed that idea out of impatience and battery power issues so i just decided to flip it around in the other direction. I took the trigger rod off the sear and dremeled a channel into the top of the spyder grip frame to allow the sear room to rock up and down while the gun cycles. I cut the front of the grip frame to line up with the holes in the body of the PTP mag body . Everything has gone smoothly so far without any hitches and the frame bolts onto the body nice, easy, and securely.

However now I am faced with a slight dilemma. Trying to make room for the noid to operate and then mount it to the frame so it doesn't wobble around while playing. I was thinking of jb welding it after all was said and done to secure the noid. but then it would most likely become a permanent part of the Frame.

Does anyone have pics of the inside of their spyder frame who has done a similar mod to there frame? I found some pics on pbnation but they were horribly blurry. I 'll post up pics hopefully by late tonight. Anyone Have any thoughts to add?

With the Spyder frames Im not sure,... I had to make a tention block for my AGD frame to hold the solenoid in place.

If you look on your spyder frame,.. can you use the old set screws they did to hold the solenoid in place? If the holes are not in the correct place anymore due to the shift in horizontal space for the solenoid to work with an AGD sear, you need to drill 2 holes on either side of the frame from the top to bring tension to the solenoid and hold it in place. Try to use 6-32 threading on your holes, or if you have the space, 8-32 threaded screws are better.

Hope that helps!

~ P8nt

[Darkspidie1984]

With the Spyder frames Im not sure,... I had to make a tention block for my AGD frame to hold the solenoid in place.

If you look on your spyder frame,.. can you use the old set screws they did to hold the solenoid in place? If the holes are not in the correct place anymore due to the shift in horizontal space for the solenoid to work with an AGD sear, you need to drill 2 holes on either side of the frame from the top to bring tension to the solenoid and hold it in place. Try to use 6-32 threading on your holes, or if you have the space, 8-32 threaded screws are better.

Hope that helps!

~ P8nt

Yeah I was thinking about doing that. The original set screw holes are no longer a viable option due to How i had to set up the frame internals. I still have the set screws them selves though! I may be able to drill and tap new holes for them. only problem is they are probably metric threaded.

[p8ntbal4me]

Yeah I was thinking about doing that. The original set screw holes are no longer a viable option due to How i had to set up the frame internals. I still have the set screws them selves though! I may be able to drill and tap new holes for them. only problem is they are probably metric threaded.

Cyberave68 has a thread on the AO in which he sells ANSI threaded screws.

You can also find them in the fastener aisle of Home Depot (in a bunch of drawers)

If you have the tap,... you can do this yourself.

I would stay away from the JB Weld,... you wont like the results!

~ P8nt

[Darkspidie1984]

Cyberave68 has a thread on the AO in which he sells ANSI threaded screws.

You can also find them in the fastener aisle of Home Depot (in a bunch of drawers)

If you have the tap,... you can do this yourself.

I would stay away from the JB Weld,... you wont like the results!

~ P8nt

Agreed I would really like to be able to service the noid when necessary. I will look at the frame when I get out of class late tonight and figure out what needs to be done.

On another note. Will a ULT work in my stock 68 micromag valve? I will probably be selling my retro valve. Since Im selling my RT valve I will need a ult to use my stock valve.

[p8ntbal4me]

Agreed I would really like to be able to service the noid when necessary. I will look at the frame when I get out of class late tonight and figure out what needs to be done.

On another note. Will a ULT work in my stock 68 micromag valve? I will probably be selling my retro valve. Since Im selling my RT valve I will need a ult to use my stock valve.

Per my experience as well as other,.. you get better battery life and better results if you use a ULT.

In some (or most) cases, it is required.

~ P8nt

[Darkspidie1984]

I added pics. Its more jacked up in the pics than it really is. You can't see the spots where I dremeled with the grips on.

[p8ntbal4me]

try taking the pics with over head lighting and no flash.

Cant see much of the dremel work

~ P8nt