68 automag rebuild. trigger pulls but wont fire

[john15i177]

im rebuilding a 68 automag i bought back in 1999. im still waiting for my rebuild kit to get here, but for now ive just greased up my old seals and tried to sand off some of the rust on the spring. I also found my old hpa tank so i twisted it in and tried firing off a dry round but nothing happened when i pulled the trigger down. now theres already a couple things i think it could be, like the fact that the tank had about 200 psi of 8 year old air, or it could also be that i took the gun apart and put it back together and maybe i overlooked something. when i took it apart again and pulled the trigger back, i noticed that the sear was flush with the body, in such a way that it didnt really pop out of the hole, it was just...flush, or maybe even just barely from surface. i cant imagine how it wouldve been able to hit the on/off pin if the valvebody was attached.
has anyone else had this problem before?
i also read some other threads with a similar problem and i guess a new seal or seat fixed the issue. i suppose i should just throw all the new seals on the thing when they get here. i was trying to be extremely conservative and replace one seal at a time.


im also looking into buying a new frame or a new mainbody with a vertical feed. im not really too sure which one i should go with first. i havent paintballed in almost 8 years and i have no idea which one will benefit me more. a new mainbody would be nice but then i'd probably have to buy a new barrel too, which probably wouldnt be possible with my current state of funds. is a new frame significantly better than a new mainbody? btw i have a stock valve and bolt

[secretweaponevan]

200 psi "might" pressurize the trigger and nothing more.

All a mag needs is:
O-rings that don't leak.
Air tool oil or Autolube.
>450 PSI of input pressure.


O-rings dry out and leak, so after you get new seals in her, good lube and a fill, give us a holler!

[TeamBob]

you

You dont have enough air.

the body and frame are personal choice. The vert feed body will run you right around 100. Then a cocker barrel will be needed. you can pick a decent 1 up between $15-25.

The trigger frame is also personal choice. Im assuming u have a singel trigger frame now. You can pick up in intelly frame for around 50 bux. You can also get singel trigger frames that have been cut off and have a double trigger on them for around 20-25 beans.

The choice is up to you and all person preference. But your body that you have now works fine, but a single trigger can be a PIA after about half way through a day of play. I'd go that way first. The best thing you can do when ur ready to buy is watch the B/S/T forum on here, nothing sells for a high price, usually between average and cheap. Post a wanted add in there for what you looking for and what you want to spend.

That being said, i have a single trgger frame that has been cut and has a dbl tigger on it. Pm if you are interested

[chefomar]

A couple of weeks ago I was in that same boat. This link can be useful. http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...=john15i177]im rebuilding a 68 automag i bought back in 1999. im still waiting for my rebuild kit to get here, but for now ive just greased up my old seals and tried to sand off some of the rust on the spring. I also found my old hpa tank so i twisted it in and tried firing off a dry round but nothing happened when i pulled the trigger down. now theres already a couple things i think it could be, like the fact that the tank had about 200 psi of 8 year old air, or it could also be that i took the gun apart and put it back together and maybe i overlooked something. when i took it apart again and pulled the trigger back, i noticed that the sear was flush with the body, in such a way that it didnt really pop out of the hole, it was just...flush, or maybe even just barely from surface. i cant imagine how it wouldve been able to hit the on/off pin if the valvebody was attached.
has anyone else had this problem before?
i also read some other threads with a similar problem and i guess a new seal or seat fixed the issue. i suppose i should just throw all the new seals on the thing when they get here. i was trying to be extremely conservative and replace one seal at a time.


im also looking into buying a new frame or a new mainbody with a vertical feed. im not really too sure which one i should go with first. i havent paintballed in almost 8 years and i have no idea which one will benefit me more. a new mainbody would be nice but then i'd probably have to buy a new barrel too, which probably wouldnt be possible with my current state of funds. is a new frame significantly better than a new mainbody? btw i have a stock valve and bolt[/QUOTE]

[Dend78]

personally if it was me i would say

A) get your tank rehydroed its past due if its got 8 year air in it
B) follow what evan said
C) go for a frame, it all depends on feel if you want the double trigger feel i say go intelli, if you want single stick with a CF one and look up a new body, barrels are cheap unless you get really picky. i mean i see good barrels go for 30 or less and bodies go for 100ish

[john15i177]

ive been using this lube spray that we have for greasing our rifles. it says its harmless on rubber and wood parts so hopefully its cool on the rings.
yeah i was hoping itd be the 8yearold 200psi air. i bought a brand new 68ci crossfire high pressure tank but havent had a chance to fill it up. theres no hpa fill locations around where i live so i'll probably have to take my tank to the field and hope my gun works that day. i dont know anyone else that paintballs around here either, which really sucks since i cant ever borrow anyones gear for a day or two.

the only problem i have with my mainbody is that I like being on the left and shooting to the right, and my feed pops out to the right. i noticed alot of automags had the feed neck that was welded on pointed to the left or right, but mine just comes straight out of the right side up. i like that its somewhat unique, at least in comparison to other mags that ive seen online. maybe mines just really old.

ahh maybe i should just get that frame though. those things look so sweet too. ive had my eye on the intelliframe, and i have $100 store credit with actionvillage. i just feel as if the bps wouldnt increase that much because i got the original valve and bolt. would you consider it a better idea to buy an xvalve+lvl10 bolt over a intelliframe+ULEbody+newbarrel?



btw, thanks for the help guys. greatly appreciated

[Spider-TW]

Like Dend said, the frame is about how it feels to you.

Two finger frames are a different style of play, so if you have not played with one yet and only have the one marker you might keep your single frame handy.

[Konigballer]

ive been using this lube spray that we have for greasing our rifles. it says its harmless on rubber and wood parts so hopefully its cool on the rings.

john, I wouldn't lube your mag's o-rings with anything but Autolube, Gold Cup oil, or something similar. O-rings are not made of rubber and most gun oils eventually eat away at them. The whole key to mag maintenance is lubricating o-ring seals to keep it performing right.

As for your classic body, yours does not seem to be a 'powerfeed' body. I would just buy a 'powerfeed left' classic mag body used on one of the many pb forums, their very cheap. You can even have someone polish it up to a high shine for you. The X-vavle is a great upgrade, but here again I would consider buying used, or buying an older RT valve. The RT valves are the same as the X-valve except made from stainless steel instead of alluminum, but performance is basically identical. I prefer stainless steel personaly, and I just bought a used RT valve, with Level10 installed, from a guy here on AO today for my Minimag. Because of the economy downturn, and people getting out of the sport, there are alot of good deals around on parts and guns so definately look around.

[athomas]

the only problem i have with my mainbody is that I like being on the left and shooting to the right, and my feed pops out to the right. i noticed alot of automags had the feed neck that was welded on pointed to the left or right, but mine just comes straight out of the right side up. i like that its somewhat unique, at least in comparison to other mags that ive seen online. maybe mines just really old.

The original automags all had the straight feed. Everyone eventually changed over to the powerfeed because of its many advantages when using gravity fed hoppers. Using gravity fed hoppers, the balls had a tendency to bounce back up the feed tube when firing due to blowback. The powerfeed bodies used the blowback air to bounce the balls into the breach, so the feed speed was actually faster than regular gravity fed systems. This prevented chops, especially in the first couple of quick shots. Newer force feed hoppers no longer have the same problems so it is not an issue. If you don't want the hopper sticking out when you fire, get a force fed hopper and then cut your feed tube off so that it doesn't stick out as far.

[john15i177]

john, I wouldn't lube your mag's o-rings with anything but Autolube, Gold Cup oil, or something similar. O-rings are not made of rubber and most gun oils eventually eat away at them. The whole key to mag maintenance is lubricating o-ring seals to keep it performing right.

i had suspected this. it seemed very fishy, but i did it anyway. good thing these are the old seals.
i was unaware that i could put an RT valve on my classic. ive always been paranoid of buying used parts but if it's significantly cheaper to buy a used rt valve+lvl10 bolt, i'll probably consider buying that instead of raking up 250 for the xvalve and bolt. 250's pretty steep for an upgrade, at least for me.

yeah, perhaps the classic body isnt as cool as i once thought it was, haha. i knew there had to have been some cons, because i couldnt find any pictures with people still using classic straight feeds. so i would have less issues with chopping and blowback if i use a forcefed hopper on my classic's straight feed? how about on a power feed body?

[athomas]

On a powerfeed body, it doesn't matter as much. The forcefeed hoppers work fine, and the 90 degree direction change at the breach keeps the balls from getting blown back up the tube when using a gravity feed hopper. The next shot in line actually gets bounced into the breach by the blowback air. This speeds up the feed process for balls waiting in the feed tube. The big thing I like about the standard feed and force feed hoppers, is the lower profile you get. There is about an inch difference in height if you cut down a standard feed body rather than use a powerfeed body.

[Spider-TW]

Was there a left standard feed body? Not sure I would want one, but I can remember seeing all of the other feeds. I think I remember a left feed, but it may have been "customized".

[athomas]

I think there was both left and right feed standard bodies, but I could be mistaken on that one. I'm not 100% sure.

Using a standard feed that is cut down, its not as critical whether you have a left or right feed anyway. You can sight down the center of the marker without the hopper sticking out very far no matter which side you are shooting on. People had gone to centerfeed to get away from the powerfeed that blocked a lot of view. They used tall feed necks to compensate for the blowback. Then with the advent of forcefeed hoppers blowback was no longer an issue and they lowered the centerfeed necks to reduce the profile. No one even thought to go back to lowered stanard feed bodies to further reduce height profile and to allow sighting over the barrel again.

[stoffa15]

Welcome home bro

Alright first off, you have a piece of history in your hands. Agd is the foundation of almost every marker now a days. I wouldn't suggest putting all these add ons to your marker ill you've played with it for a while and have the need to upgrade. It doesn't matter how much money you put into a gun or how cool it looks. If you can't hit the broad side of a barn with it you'll be waisting more money on paint!!!!!

steps you should take
1 get you gun working to were it can be reliable. (autolube is great but other lubes can be used) there are two oil fill holes on the underneath of your body, Use them!!!!! drop marker oil in there, about 5 drops in the asa and then turn upside down and dry fire that sucker.hopefully, and most prob this will lube everything in your valve. after this you'll find out what orings you NEED to change.
2 after getting your marker to work properly get yourself a really good loader. if you have a gravity fed system or Adjitated system you want to upgrade to something better.
3 now that you have your marker working, and your not going to break paint with you new loader. See what you need to have.

Remember that a Mag is so much more upgradeable then any other marker out there. You have the best forum ever to go on to learn how to fix your marker. You also have a great bst thread where we're not looking to make a buck on our stuff.

Welcome back to the wonderful world of Mags. it took me a year to piece together my Mag. take your time you'll be so much more happier with it

[athomas]

Don't bother with the oil holes. They don't do much. Just add a couple of drops of oil into the ASA and cycle through a few dry shots to start the day and you will be fine. Take the barrel off when cycling to blow the excess oil out. You don't want any in your barrel. It will make your paintballs inaccurate.