Help an Pneumag newb out. :(

[Nom Carver]

OK so I broke my foot and can't go to school. Because of this I have been staying at home all day doing absolutely nothing and got to thinking that a project would be fun. I bought my first mag last year and thought that turning it into a pneumag would be cool. I have searched these forums and the rest of the net and have found out numerous things about what it takes to convert a mag into a pneumag. However I still have a couple questions.

1. I have a Classic Valve. I know that you can use one as long as you have an RT on/off. My question is would it be better if I just bought an RT Valve or would the Classic work fine?

2. How much would it all cost including: RT Valve (if I need it), LPR, and then all of the numerous pneumatic fittings and hoses?

3. How much cutting would I have to do to the frame if I use an Inteliframe?

4. Would the trigger pull still be light if I don't have a ULT?

My current setup is a classic body and valve, classic rail and trigger frame (would swap that out for the Inteliframe), CP on/off (I would attach the LPR onto this), and a drop (I would probably get rid of this).

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

PS-I know how much a used Inteliframe usually costs, but how much does the RT valve usually go for in the B/S/T?

[xero28]

1. You don't really need the RT on/off, you'll just have to increase the pressure in the LPR. Worked fine on my classic with stock on/off. The classic valve will work just fine. It will run 12-15 bps no problem, you really won't be able to shoot much faster anyway.

2. Pneu kits from Cyberrave are $40 I think, LPRs are anywhere from $10-$40, RT valves are anywhere from $80-$130, but you probably won't need one. You will want to make sure you have a level 10 if you don't have one already, those are $50-$85 depending on whether you get one here or brand new.

3. You may have to grind off a little bit on the inside of the trigger frame to get some of the pneumatics to fit correctly, but it's nothing that can't be done with a dremmel.

4. Putting in a ULT doesn't really affect the trigger pull. The pull is really going to be the same no matter what becuase it's the lever in the MSV-2 that you are pulling against.

Good luck with you're project.

[TwilightG]

3. You may have to grind off a little bit on the inside of the trigger frame to get some of the pneumatics to fit correctly, but it's nothing that can't be done with a dremmel.

It may be possible to not have to do any cutting at all... but it might just be a tight fit. If you want a nice clean job, you can send the frame out to Luke and have it ULE'd. If you need to have the LPR mounted internally, there are a few members here that can do it.

[Skantzoheiro]

Is an on off necessary? Can't you just use a regular ASA?

-Pneu Newb

[rawbutter]

Is an on off necessary? Can't you just use a regular ASA?

-Pneu Newb

You can use a regular ASA. There reason you see a lot of on/off ASAs on pneumags is because often the trigger pull is so short that the safety really doesn't work well anymore. Therefore, switching the air off at the ASA is the safest way to go.

4. Would the trigger pull still be light if I don't have a ULT?

Technically, the trigger pull will be slightly less with a ULT. Your trigger pull will be determined why how much PSI you have running through the MSV. For my pneumag, which has a ULT, I only need about 60 psi. For a stock on/off, though, you may need 120 psi. (I really don't know, though. I've never used a pneumag with a stock on/off.)

The good news is that the trigger pull will still be insanely light. It might take two onces of force to shoot the gun instead of one ounce... and at this point I'm just making up numbers, but hopefully you get the point.

If I were you, I would go ahead and built the pneumag with the parts you already have. If you get the thing finished and the pull still isn't light enough for your liking, then you can always upgrade the valve very easily without having to even touch the internals.

[rawbutter]

Technically, the trigger pull will be slightly less with a ULT.

I should also mention that there's something even more important that what parts you use. It's location, location, location. Keeping the MSV as far down as possible and hitting the lever at the longest spot really makes a huge difference.

Check out this pic.


This was my first pneumag attempt. It worked okay, but see how high the MSV is and how short the lever is? I was really disappointed afterwards because the trigger pull wasn't as light as I expected. (It was lighter than the ULT on/off, but it still wasn't easily walkable.) Then, I took a closer look at some other pneumags, realized my mistake, and redid the internals so now they look like this.



It made a huge difference. Now, it's easily walkable and works great.