question about reactivity

[Dend78]

ok im working to tune up a lvl10 on an emag valve but i was having a lil trouble so i went to a lvl7 bolt to start with. anyway im running off a crossfire, with and RT on/off and this sucker is bouncin like there is no tomorrow. i thought ok pin is short.....nope longest pin i have, all of my other pins are considerably shorter. i dont know exact length but im guessing its near the 750 since its so much longer than the other ones i have. any other ideas as to what could be causing this bounce? also its a classic frame single trigger, classic rail, classic pf hopper right body, nothing crazy but im getting like 4 shots out of each trigger pull. also im seeing a gap of nearly 1/16" give or take between trigger rod and trigger. thoughts as to what it could be?


Dend78

[captian pinky]

my guess is sear is worn down alot

[eXo_oUtSiDeR]

Sometimes some valves are just more reactive than others. There are small differences in milling and whatnot which could lead to more reactivity, thats all i can think of.

Try it with a shorter pin to see if it shoots even faster!

[Spider-TW]

my guess is sear is worn down alot

That or a loose field strip screw. I had a worn sear that was controllable on a classic valve, but I could not make it reliable on an x-valve. If the rear screw was loose it could runaway even with a ULT. When tightened up, it started doubling more often until it didn't seem to hold at all.

[p8ntbal4me]

I have an E-Mag that when the electronics are turned off,... it will bounce like you are explaining.

The reason for this (as I have tested on my own gear) is the the length of the on off pin.

For me in all 3 of my Micro E-Mags, 1 E-Mag, 4 X-Mags,... the magic number length is .685

I get a reactive trigger on a preset 88/3000 all the time.

You might want to invest in a digital caliper, get an extra on/off pin, and make it this length to try.

I have convinced BigEvil to do this at Tunaball 1,... he also said it is a better length for E-Mags.

On Classic R/Ts,..... I have had some mixed results.

I mention this pin length because I find you can control the bouncing better or eliminate it all together.

~ P8nt

[Dend78]

ill do some more research, i havent quite figured it out cause i really dont want any bounce just yet probably none at all since im gonna use it on a pneumag. my sear looks to be ok, but ill try swapping it out. this was just off messin around with 2500pis in my 70/45, i know i need a caliper in a bad way they arent to expensive im just tighter than bark on a tree from time to time hahaha. ill let you all know what i come up with

[p8ntbal4me]

...probably none at all since im gonna use it on a pneumag.

If you use a pneumag frame,.. you dont need to worry about the reactivity. The pneumag frame will virtually eliminate reactivity regardless of input pressure.

~ P8nt

[Dawg047]

If you use a pneumag frame,.. you dont need to worry about the reactivity. The pneumag frame will virtually eliminate reactivity regardless of input pressure.

~ P8nt

Yep, this is the key. No worrys on a Pneumag. You don't have the front of the trigger pin, just the top sear part so no worry's there either because you don't have the pressure of your finger helping the mechanical bounce of the RT. Wish I could get 4 shots off a trigger pull. My poor RT's are kind of limp. Guess I better get a tuning!