Classic RT body and Emag lower

[athomas]

hmm ic, maybe going with a banjo bolt and an rt rail is the only way? either way i have an rt body coming soon so i'll see how that goes.

No, for what you are doing, all you need to do is cut the body to the proper length. You are using the body on an existing setup. The spacing for everything else on the RT body is the same as a regular emag, retromag, automag body. An RT rail would be a hassle though.

[atech2]

I beg to differ. I thought the same thing about the spacing, until I actually tried it. If you want to waste your money trying yourself, be my guest, but I hate seeing good bodies destroyed for no reason. To the eye they look the same, but they don't fit correctly. I personally took all the measurements, and compared to a RTP, after finding out they don't fit. They are not the same.

[athomas]

A lot of people have made the conversions with success. What dimensions are different?

[atech2]

Here are some pictures of the mock up of my project.


The difference is where the frame screws are placeed on the rail and body in relation to the sear. Like I stated before, it can be done, but getting it to work properly is not a simple bolt on procedure.

[211]

I think the original poster is just looking to use a RT classic body with a RT pro valve and rail
in which case some careful measuring and either a pipe cutter or a hacksaw will cut the body to the desired length
the sear slot, twistlock hole, and the front screw should all line up fine

[atech2]

According to my measurements and comparisons, the front frame screw is spaced different in relation to all other components, (sear, twistlosck, etc...), on the RT Classic body and rail, then on other AGD markers.
I tried mixing parts and spent extensive efforts and money to determine the differences. I purchased both a complete RT Classic and RT Pro to make this determination. Just trying to help correctly answer these questions from what I have discovered though first hand research.

[atech2]

Measurements from twistlock hole to front frame screw.

RTP= 0.488 centered (or .258 between the two)

RT Classic = 0.522 centered ( or .292 between the two)

Please feel free to verify.

[TeamBob]

random plug for me.

If any1 needs a extra classic Rt body for a project, i have 2 to choose from. Pm if interested..

Thought this might help in some1s project here...

[TeamBob]

random plug for me.

If any1 needs a extra classic Rt body for a project, i have 2 to choose from. Pm if interested..

Thought this might help in some1s project here...

[atech2]

Still looking for a buyer Bob?

My suggestion to the original topic, do like 221 did. Just get a RT Classic and mount the lowers to that. Looks so cool, makes me consider doing it.

[pk5]

So right now i have an emag valve and a RT classic body.

What i would need is an RT classic rail, and a banjo bolt?

Can i just get a rail, drill a hole through the body, use an emag or rt pro valve, and air it directly? Without the hardline connector that goes into the rail?

Thanks

[atech2]

No, the RT valves are thinner to fit inside the body. Rt bodies and rails are only aligned to be used with each other.

If you have the Emag lowers, and really want to use an RT Classic body, sell everything else and buy a cheap RT Classic. Easier and cheaper, and will work better than any other option.

Bob was asking twice what you paid for that RT body, so you should get your money back out of it.

[TeamBob]

yup

yup, and im in need of a little extra cash so i can try and come up with 1 of those new mag jerseys. Id take $35 shipped for my extra non-polished body . pm if interested

[pk5]

So basically buy a classic RT, take the top body / rail / valve and sell the rest back on the market?

[atech2]

I would keep the sight rail, but that look is up to you. All the other parts are interchangable with other AGD markers, so you should be able to sell those easily.
If you go that direction, fitting Emag lowers is just as easy as modding a trigger frame.