X valve thread damage repair

[yellowzuk]

I brought a tac one with logic frame not long ago. It come with the x valve and the thread damage at the bottom. (The one for field strip screw.) It had been repair with the helico coil and did not go all the way to the hole. To keep the long story short, can I use helico coil to repair again? What is the part number. I want the one can screw all the way to the hole and make a stronger repair.

Anyone use the time insert to repair thread damage in X valve? If yes, May I have the part # as well.

I also have the front emag valve which I brought in AO not long ago. However, it does not line up with my X valve. Can someone machine the front emag to line up back x valve. (I don't want to do anything to my back x valve!)

Since I brought my tac one it never work properly to me with the x valve ult. I want to make sure my field strip screw tight then I can further make sure where is the problem. (I have bolt stick now! and replace every single parts inside the valve. So you should know how disappointed I am.) I am use my tac one with classic valve LX now.

Hopfully, I can hear some input. Thank you

[TwilightG]

bolt stick could be caused by your lvl10 carrier being too tight. It may not have anything to do w/ the field strip screw.

So is it that the field strip screw isn't tight? You really only need to hand tighten it and then maybe give it a small 1/4 turn or so w/ an allen key for good measure. No need to crank down on it. (too loose or too tight can also cause bolt-stick due to misalignment)

If the screw just spins when trying to tighten it, then you've got some work on your hands I have no experience with using Heli-coils so I'm not much help there.

Good luck!

[flyingpootang]

The Heli Coil kit is 10/32 threads. If it already has a Heli Coil in it and the field strip screw will not go all the way down look into the hole you probably didn't remove the Heli Coil tang. The tang is keeping you from tightening your field strip screw. You can break off the tang by pushing down on it with a straight pic. If it doesn't break off pull up, then down until it breaks off....

[Spider-TW]

You may also have one or two other problems with the threads. The standard heli-coil kit comes with a "plug" tap that will not thread all the way to the bottom. You would need the special heli-coil "bottom" tap to get the last ones with the proper size to get the insert all the way in.

The other thing to look for is that some of the old field strip screws were a thread or two too long for the x-valve. The screw will be finger tight, but the valve is still loose. This is probably how they often get stripped.Grind a couple threads off the tip if that is the case.

In general, you should have a thread depth that is at least as long as the bolt diameter. You should have some spare in the valve body hole. If you have enough threads in the existing heli-coil, I would make the screw fit the valve. The Heli-coil threads should be stronger than the aluminum thread of smaller diameter.

[Tunaman]

I use red loctite on the helicoil and dont touch it or thread the screw in for 24 hrs.

[Watcher]

With the valve halves, each one is made specifically for it's matching regulator half.

That is why getting a valve with matching serials is so important, in fact AGD will not tech valves unless the serials match.


That isn't to say one reg half will not work with another valve half, they just will not line up correctly.

They may even hurt performace more than help it, IIRC there are certain milled sections that need to line up for the valve to have the best air-flow.



Good luck with the Heli-coils. Hope you get this thing up and running soon


You may want to try drilling and tapping the valve for a larger screw such that you'd find at a hardware store (if you can find one similar with the knurled head).
Then just reem out the rail and frame holes for the new screw, but that is a last ditch effort.

[yellowzuk]

Thank you for all the inputs. I just get the helicoil thread repair insert book. If the field strip screw is 10/32, it only has 0.285" long. However, the field strip screw has 3/8 thread which is 0.375". Therefore, I will order the time insert for repair my x valve this time. It is because it has 0.370" long in ss insert. I have one question about the installion. Do you think I will drill too deep and drill through the x valve? I hope someone has a cross section x valve and give me the answer.

I know I am waste the money to buy the emag front valve. I always want the front ss valve because I don't want see the thread damage again.

For LX tuning, I try from larger carrier to the smaller. I think I can tune the LX properly. However, it is my first x valve with ULT. I may need my time to tune without bolt stick. Since, I order x valve rebuild kit, new valve pin assemble, new reg piston, new rt on off, different size of rt on off pin, different bolt spring, many ult and LX shim. I petty much can bulid a new valve with new valve body. Plus I have inlne max flo for different air pressure to play around. If I can't get the answer, I think I have to pass to someone in here to fix it for me or x valve and ULT is not my kind!

Once again Thank you so much for quick responses. I don't think I can find it in any other paintball marker forum! I will update if I have the time insert.

[Newt]

Hey Yellow,

If you haven't already done this, here's a tip to avoid drilling too deeply:
Take a toothpick and insert it into the stripped hole. Mark the depth on the toothpick with a small tape "flag". Copy this exact length onto your drill bit with a new piece of tape. Now just don't drill past that point, and you're fine.

Usually you can feel when you're drilling a hole deeper or just enlarging it, provided it's being done with a hand drill press.