Mini Mag A.I.R. v X-Valve

[chopper duke]

Ok, I'm sure this has been discussed over and over, but here's the situations.

I'm building another Pneumag. I've got the frame, the rail and I've found the body I want. I would love an X-Valve with a level 10, but I have here at my house, a Mini Mag with a Level 10.

If I put an R/T on/off in it, but would be the biggest difference I would see between this A.I.R. valve and say a X-valve?

[Spider-TW]

If they both have the RT on/off, you won't see much at all. I could never walk a trigger well enough to prove it, but in theory an x-valve should give you fewer ball collisions because the recharge time is shorter and your chances of pneu-chuffing are less. I can still chuff an x-valve pneu when I get in a hurry though.

That assumes that your AIR valve air passages are lined up between the reg and the valve body, otherwise you will get some shoot down. I don't know if they ever made any minimag valves that were not indexed to line up.

[xero28]

Unless you're planning on pulling strings of over 15 bps, then the AIR valve should be fine. AIR valves can easily do 13-15 bps without any shoot-down. If you've already got the valve set up, I say just stick with the AIR for now and see if it works for you. If you find you are outshooting it (which usually doesn't happen anyway) then look into an X-valve, or you could go with an RT Valve and save a little $$. The RT on/off will lessen the amount of pressure from the LPR needed to trip the sear when used in an AIR valve.

[chopper duke]

Thanks for the info guys!

I was offered an RT Pro valve with Level 10 for my Mini Mag with Level 10, but never heard back from the guy. Oh well.

[flyingpootang]

A RT on/off will lighten your trigger pull in your pneumag. It allows you to run your LPR at a lower input resulting in a lighter pull/being walkable. Keep in mind the MPA3 piston contact to your sear leg and the MSV2 lever arm to actuation pin height also play a major part in your PneuMag being walkable or not.