Probably been asked before question

[OPBN]

So, I am peicing together a new mag and had plans on using a Retro Valve and Pneuing it. I am all ready to buy the parts and give it a go and then starting wondering. What truly is the point of Pneuing a Retro Valve, or X valve for that matter? If these things are capable of 26 bps due to the response trigger effect, what exactly will Pneuing it do? Is it just for the feel? ...?

Sorry if this is a totally noob question. I already have a classic valved mag that I truly love and wanted to try my hand at peicing one together, but wondering if it really worth it?

[MANN]

you are not allowed to rt at all fields. pneu makes the trigger lighter to allow it to feel like an elec. you get true semi instead of rt

[OPBN]

you are not allowed to rt at all fields. pneu makes the trigger lighter to allow it to feel like an elec. you get true semi instead of rt

Ok, so basically you lose the RT effect with a Pneu set up? If so, I might as well do some swapping and put the Retro in my older mag and put the classic valve into the one that I planned on Pneuing?

[211]

that way youd have the best of both worlds

[WARHEAD]

Yes, I'm going to run one mag x-valve with rt on/off, and another mag x-valve with ult on/off and pneumatic gripframe. That way I have a walkable elctro-like automag with no electronics that is tournament legal (which basically means it would be allowed on any field) and I also have a tac-one setup with the r/t for pure woodsball ***-kicking.

[chafnerjr]

Ok, so basically you lose the RT effect with a Pneu set up? If so, I might as well do some swapping and put the Retro in my older mag and put the classic valve into the one that I planned on Pneuing?

Classic Valve's are a different beast... once you get over a certain BPS our going to get shoot down.

[Watcher]

you are not allowed to rt at all fields. pneu makes the trigger lighter to allow it to feel like an elec. you get true semi instead of rt

Many fields do allow it, just no tournaments.

[Spider-TW]

Classic Valve's are a different beast... once you get over a certain BPS our going to get shoot down.

Classic valves can do a constant rate of between 15 and 20 bps (e-frames), depending on how well they are tuned. That's plenty for a human if your fingers run reasonably constant.

The extra 11 to 6 bps from an RT type valve adds up to extra margin for those of us that are not so practiced or talented to keep a good rhythm on the trigger. If you play with the same marker regularly, lots of people seem to be able to get used to keeping a good pace.

The RT effect (on a standard on/off) also helps compensate for lazy or unassisted returns of the sear linkage that result from dirt, lack of lube, poor fit, etc. For a tournament pneu, I would personally have to stick with an RT type valve, unless the rules are just blanket against RT valves.

I keep a classic in my ep frame even though I have an x-valve sitting the parts box calling me all the time . I have no need for the x on the ep frame and the classic shoots a little more consistent as my rate of fire varies (and you can go from rope to 'fishing' without changing your aim point, which can get weird with the RT effect).

[OPBN]

Well, I got my Retro Valve in yesterday, hooked it up and started playing around with it. I can't seem to get it to RT really. It pushes back, but nothing like my old Tippmann used to. I have not chronoed it or really even run paint through it yet. I did notice that when the trigger pin was touching the trigger that it seemed more reactive, but I did read somewhere that you should be able to stick a business card between the pin and the trigger, so I did adjust it back.

[frans42000]

Classic Valve's are a different beast... once you get over a certain BPS our going to get shoot down.

That is true, but more so from people using CO2 than HPA.

I have a classic Pnue. I dont get shootdown with it when using HPA.

When I was using CO2, I could get shootdown even when I was using the stock carbon fiber frame and fanning the trigger.