Turning on E-mag

[T-Bird]

I just bought some e-mag lowers and converted my rt pro to a full e-mag.

I have read that you have to adjust the magnet in the trigger to get the gun to boot up, but so far no luck. Not sure if im doing this right since its my first e-mag.

I tried starting with the trigger magnet set all the way into the trigger as far as possible. Then, tried to adjust the magnet towards the hes a quarter turn at a time and try to press one of the buttons on the back of the grip frame. Still the display doesnt turn on.

I tried looking though the e-mag manual of how get turn on, but no luck...the manual was very sparse.

BTW, which button on the back of the grip turns on the gun? Is it the top one? The bottom one? Ive tried both while trying to do the adjustments, but still no luck.

Any help would be great.

[Frizzle Fry]

I just bought some e-mag lowers and converted my rt pro to a full e-mag.

I have read that you have to adjust the magnet in the trigger to get the gun to boot up, but so far no luck. Not sure if im doing this right since its my first e-mag.

I tried starting with the trigger magnet set all the way into the trigger as far as possible. Then, tried to adjust the magnet towards the hes a quarter turn at a time and try to press one of the buttons on the back of the grip frame. Still the display doesnt turn on.

I tried looking though the e-mag manual of how get turn on, but no luck...the manual was very sparse.

BTW, which button on the back of the grip turns on the gun? Is it the top one? The bottom one? Ive tried both while trying to do the adjustments, but still no luck.

Any help would be great.

You turn it on by removing the battery plug... The little yellow rubber thing?

[T-Bird]

Plug is already removed...no boot up that i can tell. Thats what worries me a little....

I charged the battery in my car until the charger flashed green.

Im hell confused.

[Watcher]

Here is a kick in the teeth...


No button is the on/off switch. The magnets have absolutely no function in the power of the grip other than to tell the solenoid when to fire.



How you turn the grip on, is on the battery pack.



With the battery pack installed, there is a little yellow pin. It is an interrupter that removes one of the battery contacts. This way, since the battery is technically disconnected, when the board is off there is absolutely no power draw.


But basically this means when you pull the pin, the marker turns on.


Edit: People posted while I was typing, GRR!

The battery pack sits on an o-ring inside the casing. Take the casing off to confirm that the o-ring is there.
Otherwise the contacts wont reach each other.

[T-Bird]

Thanks Watcher...but the plug is out and still no life in the electronics..that i can tell of.

What would be some common problems that could cause this and maybe i can try to knock them out one at a time.

[T-Bird]

I got your edit, Watcher.

Just opened up the battery compartment to check for o-rings. What a freakin mess!

The guy i had bought these lowers from on automags.org had some sort of jerryrigged monster waiting for me inside. It looks like 10 AAA batteries all wired up and wrapped with 20 miles of electrical tape.

There were no o-rings at the bottom, so i threw some in at the bottom, reassembled, but still no power up.

I even eyeballed the battery contacts with the grip frame to see if they would touch, but it looks ok.

I dont have a volt meter to check to see if power is even going though the board.

.....sigh........


......

[Frizzle Fry]

You could start by manually holding the battery to the pins to be sure that contact is being made; steelwool can remove any oxidization on the metal. If that's not it, check to see that your battery harness is in good shape. The battery pack is not pretty (your description of a bunch of taped up AAA batteries sounds about right), but if the battery is screwed that's an $80 replacement right there. The fact that it charged OK is probably a good sign, though.

[T-Bird]

Metal contacts on battery and grip frame have been cleaned.

I pulled the jerryrigged battery out of the battery case and held them up to the frame contacts.
No luck. Im guessing defunked battery??? But if that is so, how was i able to charge it in my car today?

I connected the battery charger to the car charger unit. At first, the light was red...then after like 10 minutes, it turned green, so i stopped charging.

Anything else i can try before i go out into my kitchen and microwave this power cell monstrosity into oblivion???

[Frizzle Fry]

Metal contacts on battery and grip frame have been cleaned.

I pulled the jerryrigged battery out of the battery case and held them up to the frame contacts.
No luck. Im guessing defunked battery??? But if that is so, how was i able to charge it in my car today?

I connected the battery charger to the car charger unit. At first, the light was red...then after like 10 minutes, it turned green, so i stopped charging.

Anything else i can try before i go out into my kitchen and microwave this power cell monstrosity into oblivion???

Well, I've never known an emag battery to charge in 10 minutes... They take a long time. Got any pics of the battery you've got? Does it look like this: http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/in...&categoryID=24

[T-Bird]

No camera...sorry...but i guess this gives me a chance to relive my literary skills from my college days...hahahah

It looks nothing like that stock AGD battery.

It looks like the previous owner had stacked 14 AAA NiMH batterys that output 900mAh, wired/soldered them together, and taped them with electrical tape so they can take on the trapezoidal shape of the stock battery to fit in the metal battery housing.

The guy, i guess, took off the top part of the stock battery with the battery contact and soldered them onto his new jerryrigged one. The battery also smells like ***, for lack of a better term. Not sure if that means that some of the chemicals inside have leaked out or what.

Yeah, i was surprised too when it charged up in only 10 minutes. I just figured that the batter already had some charge in it already and so it didnt take the whole 4 hours to charge a completely dead battery.

[zondo]

You could start by manually holding the battery to the pins to be sure that contact is being made; steelwool can remove any oxidization on the metal. If that's not it, check to see that your battery harness is in good shape. The battery pack is not pretty (your description of a bunch of taped up AAA batteries sounds about right), but if the battery is screwed that's an $80 replacement right there. The fact that it charged OK is probably a good sign, though.

You may also be able to PM KCs-RTule here on AO... he may still have some batteries left. It'll be ~$60 with your wires/clips. Check out the details in the Dealer threads here.

He's still operating in the background...

[GRimm]

Sorry to here about that T-Bird, did the seller mention anything about the pack?

[Watcher]

Sounds like the pack is totally F'd...


One thing you can do before we completely rule out the pack, is follow the wire from the contact in the frame, up, across, and down into the frame. See if it is cut, broken, kinked, or disconnected anywhere.

If you are brave, lick the contacts on the battery to see if they are indeed outputting a charge. They may just be accepting charge, not discharging.

Or... use a volt meter.


If the battery is good and the wires are good, next thing I'd suggest is maybe the LCD board is down. It may be powering on, but not displaying.

To check it, "power up" the frame, and lift up the sear. Pull the trigger in mech mode (I say mech because you said you adjusted the magnet so we want a positive sensor trip), and see if the solenoid clicks the sear down.

If it doesn't, then the HES may be bad, or the whole board may be messed up.


The seller didn't mention if anything was messed up?

[T-Bird]

UPDATE:

The charger, when i plugged it into the battery, was only red for 10 minutes and went green again.

I just let the charger run all last night, plugged it into the gun this morning and the board lit up (barely). Tried fooling around with the grip buttons and trigger, and the display went dead like it ran out of juice.

Could the charger be faulty and not be charging enough?? Or is the battery FUBAR? Or maybe a little of both.

***Thanks for the suggestion Zondo, i got a pm back from KCs-RTule this morning. Im going to send him my top as soon as i get the address.

***Watcher, the seller didnt mention the battery was DIY or messed up like this. I confirmed it with the seller that everything i was receiving was all in working order.

[flyingpootang]

Sounds like your charger is working, but the battery is dead. All AGD batteries are wrapped with a white heat shrink with a company logo, voltage and mha written on the side. Try to get the seller to step up and pay for or at least 1/2 the cost of a new battery...