Automag RT Classic Problem Updated.

[Newbit]

Alright so I just got back from the electro powered field I play at where people were of no help.

Setup: Automag RT Classic, Level 10 Bolt, Benchmark .45 Trigger Frame

Problem: Gas it up, gauge is showing 950psi at the valve. No Leaks. I pull the trigger and it kicks back to me, its not dead like it is when not gassed. Problem is nothing else happens, no hissing of air, no bolt movement.

What I've Done Since Problem Started:
Oiled up.
Cranked up velocity to max (and areas in between).
Switched to smallest bolt spring.
Using largest carrier and its not leaking.
I've replaced EVERY O-Ring in the valve. Bolt is brand new, no reason to replace those rings. but did double check to see if level 10 was setup correctly.
I've also tried tripping sear with my finger,only get same reaction.

[BiNumber3]

install a lvl 7 n see if that works, im pretty sure yer problem lies in the regulator piston. RT classics n Retro valves usually need a new high pressure piston to allow for the higher pressure lvl 10 needs.

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=112&categoryID=23

chances are, if u have never changed the piston, n the gun has never had a lvl 10 before, u need to replace it.

If u have access to another rt pro/x/e valve, u can borrow the piston from there n see if it works.

EDIT: yea, bigevil could be right, some of the benchie's ive tried werent quite drop in

[Newbit]

install a lvl 7 n see if that works, im pretty sure yer problem lies in the regulator piston. RT classics n Retro valves usually need a new high pressure piston to allow for the higher pressure lvl 10 needs.

http://store.airgundesignsusa.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=112&categoryID=23

chances are, if u have never changed the piston, n the gun has never had a lvl 10 before, u need to replace it.

If u have access to another rt pro/x/e valve, u can borrow the piston from there n see if it works.

Well I would have access if you didn't go and buy my roomies RT Pro :-P

Since this is the only good advise I've gotten so far I'll get working on it, thanks man.

EDIT: Damn $25 for something that might fix, better fix it =/

[BigEvil]

More than likely its the Benchmark frame that is causing your woes. Try messing with the trigger rod.

[Newbit]

More than likely its the Benchmark frame that is causing your woes. Try messing with the trigger rod.

Yea I thought about that, but like I said in my post I tripped the sear with my finger and still got the same problem. Plus it worked fine in the past with the level 7 setup. Not sure why that would change with the level 10.

[Watcher]

Check the level 10 bolt head's diameter.

The level 10 bolt I got was a SFL bolt, and wouldn't even fit into the body-ring.

Yours could be binding on it.

In that case, all it needs is some sanding.


The bolt should be no bigger than, IIRC, .684 inches.

[BiNumber3]

Check the level 10 bolt head's diameter.

The level 10 bolt I got was a SFL bolt, and wouldn't even fit into the body-ring.

Yours could be binding on it.

In that case, all it needs is some sanding.


The bolt should be no bigger than, IIRC, .684 inches.

there's no bolt movement at all tho (well, sounds like it), but an easy way to check would be to just slide the bolt in without the spring, n see if the bolt goes through easily

[Newbit]

there's no bolt movement at all tho (well, sounds like it), but an easy way to check would be to just slide the bolt in without the spring, n see if the bolt goes through easily

This should only matter if I have a barrel on right? I'm testing without one.

The more I read old posts the more I'm thinking its my piston assembly like Bi suggested. To bad I didn't gank it from that gun your getting.

[BiNumber3]

no shouldnt matter, sometimes the lvl 10 bolt will become thicker than the ring inside the body, or in some cases the ring is smaller than it should be, which would prevent the bolt from being able to pass through it. fixable via a lil sanding.

edit: yea lol, was gonna suggest u try it if yer friend hadnt shipped yet wish there was a trade-in program or somethin, old pistion for new one.

[athomas]

Regulator piston won't fix your problem. If your regulator piston was bad, it would leak out the back once you got up to operating velocity. The fact that you can't get it to fire and no leak out the back, means the problem is not your regulator piston assembly.

Test the internals of the valve. Do this by installing the valve without the bolt. Hold the trigger in and gas the marker up. Release the trigger. Air should gush out the front. Hold the trigger to stop it. If it does gush air, then the regulator part of the valve is working. if it doesn't, then your on-off or your sear assembly/trigger frame is causing the on-off to not open.

Your trigger rod should be adjusted so that the trigger is free to move forward so that there is a gap between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod when the marker is gassed up. If there is no gap, the on-off won't open to charge the front chamber. If the gap is too large, the sear will never release the bolt.