Field Strip screw...

[Gotcha3]

Ok so here goes...

On my E-MAG, it seems as though the field-strip screw must be tightened a certain amount in order for the marker to shoot normally. If the field strip screw is not tightened enough, the marker will not fire (and by not tightened enough, I mean that it is necessary to use the allen wrench to tighten). In some cases, the marker will fire normally at slow ROF, but will stop firing if I start shooting faster.
However, if tightened too much, the marker will not fire sometimes, and other times it leaks down the barrel.

Why is this occurring? What do I need to do to fix it? I would really appreciate any tips.
Thanks

[BiNumber3]

has the body or the rail been modified in any way? most likely a tolerance issue

[kcombs9]

What On/off (ULT/RT/Emag) do you have, did you shorten it any, lvl 10 or lvl 7 bolt.

My emag I just have to do it hand tight and it works fine. using RT on off with xvavle and tuned lvl 10.

oh and is it shooting at 280ish fps? and you have good input pressure?

[Gotcha3]

Hmmmm.
On/Off type = Not sure, but no modifications have been performed
Rail = stock E-MAG rail
Body = ULE center feed
Bolt = LvL 10
Tank = 70/4500 preset @ 800 PSI
As for the on/off, I'm not sure. I have not modified it. I bought the E-MAG brand-new from Tuna. It has a stock E-MAG rail with a ULE body on it. I have not performed any modifications to it at all. My old E-MAG was like yours---you screw in the field-strip screw hand tight and it was ready to go.

BTW...I have an RT Pro ULE custom directly from AGD that does the same thing with respect to the field-strip screw.

[Gotcha3]

OK---I fixed the whole field-strip screw problem. I think I wasn't pushing the valve far enough forward as I was tightening the screw in. Now it fires consistently when I just tighten it with my fingers.

HOWEVER...

It has been impossible for me to fire at a high ROF---even with the electronics ON. Every time I have tried to "walk" the trigger...the bolt goes about half way forward, vents air and then resets itself...during DRY FIRE. Is this a LvL 10 issue? It is acting like it is preventing me from chopping, but there is no paint going through the marker.

Why would it do this?
I am using the 1.5 o-ring carrier
2 shims
Medium Spring
Velocity = 275-280 fps

I should also tell you that I have tested the marker in manual mode. When I pull the trigger and hold it, the marker shoots correctly but then air will leak down the barrel for about 1-1.5 seconds while I hold the trigger back. It stops leaking on its own even while I hold the trigger back after about 1 to 1.5 seconds. Is the o-ring carrier too big? Would this be why I am having a hard time obtaining a high ROF?

Please help...Thanks.

[kcombs9]

Others feel free to correct me but if it leaks while holding the trigger its a On/off problem not the lvl 10.

[Wanta B Sniper]

That is correct, top teflon o-ring if I'm not mistaken.

[athomas]

OK---I fixed the whole field-strip screw problem. I think I wasn't pushing the valve far enough forward as I was tightening the screw in. Now it fires consistently when I just tighten it with my fingers.

HOWEVER...

It has been impossible for me to fire at a high ROF---even with the electronics ON. Every time I have tried to "walk" the trigger...the bolt goes about half way forward, vents air and then resets itself...during DRY FIRE. Is this a LvL 10 issue? It is acting like it is preventing me from chopping, but there is no paint going through the marker.

Why would it do this?
I am using the 1.5 o-ring carrier
2 shims
Medium Spring
Velocity = 275-280 fps

I should also tell you that I have tested the marker in manual mode. When I pull the trigger and hold it, the marker shoots correctly but then air will leak down the barrel for about 1-1.5 seconds while I hold the trigger back. It stops leaking on its own even while I hold the trigger back after about 1 to 1.5 seconds. Is the o-ring carrier too big? Would this be why I am having a hard time obtaining a high ROF?

Please help...Thanks.

While holding the trigger, leaking for a couple of seconds on a level 10 bolt is ok as long as it stops after a few seconds.

chuffing while dry firing is a level 10 issue. It is usually related to bolt stick. Maybe your carrier is too tight. Check that first. There could be rubbing of the bolt on something. Check your detents.

Your problem with the valve not being far enough forward will happen again with use. The valve will always creep to its most rear position. It is possible that the bolt stick issue is also causing the gun to not fire when this happens.

[Gotcha3]

I don't know what to think. I had to switch carriers because the 1.5 got to the point that it would leak as soon as I gassed the marker up, even without any shims. I tried the 1.0 carrier and went back to the smallest spring. I put a fair amount of AutoLube on the o-ring and the bolt as there was a noticeable amount of friction. I had it working pretty well, but then I decided to see if I had really fixed the issue--so I gave the medium spring another try. I went and cranked the velocity up and got it to cycle, but it began to chuff again when I would try to achieve a high ROF.
I then thought, well, I will just deal with having to use the shortest spring for the time being. So I put the small spring back in, and then it was chuffing with the attempt of a high ROF. I am making this seem like it was a quick operation, but I was literally at the field working on this for about 2 hours. I am pretty frustrated.

When I switch o-ring carriers, is it necessary to also switch o-rings, or can you just use the same o-ring in another carrier?

Any advice on the above info. would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[athomas]

Always use the same white oring when changing carriers. You are actually changing carriers to adjust the size of the oring.

Is your rail bushing in place? Is the sear worn where it holds the bolt?

Maybe you have a bad oring. Try changing it and retuning your level 10.

[Gotcha3]

Yes, the rail bushing is in place, but it is a very tight fit when I put the field-strip screw in. I don't know how that could be a problem, though. I do know that on all my other Mags, it is quite easy to slip the screw through the rail bushing and up into the valve---however, this is not as easy in this situation.

I should also add, that when I take out the valve and look at the hole in which the field-strip screw screws into, it is a bit worn on the edges. I've taken the valve out and screwed in the screw to make sure that it goes in correctly and it does, so I am still a little baffled by this situation.

My tank has 4500 psi in it, so I will be trying to do some more work on it before the weekend. I will keep you guys posted. I appreciate everyone's attempt in trying to help me.

[athomas]

Also, make sure the field strip screw isn't bottoming out. If that is the case, it could lead you to think everything is tight, when only the screw is tight.

[Gotcha3]

Hmmm. What do you mean by "bottoming out"?

[Spider-TW]

Hmmm. What do you mean by "bottoming out"?

The screw can screw in all the way to the bottom of the hole in the valve and get tight, wrench tight, but the shaft of the screw is long enough that it doesn't hold the valve tight against the rail.

I had an old classic mag screw that was more than a whole thread too long for an x-valve. That gets you a loose valve and more than 0.031 inches of play under your on/off that's tuned to the last 0.005 inches.

IF that's the case, some file or dremel work on the end of the screw fixes it up easily.

Try throwing a washer between the frame and the head of the field strip screw if you're not sure.

[athomas]

yeah, that's exactly it.