tuning a level 10 in an Emag

[DamianTC]

today while playing with my Emag I decided to put it in true mech, M mode with no battery. First time I tryed this. As soon as I did the bolt started leaking. I thought this was strange because in E mode or hybrid M, it shot fine. So I figured to put it in true mech and just tune the level 10. My starting point was the biggest carrier, 3 shims, and smallest spring. I took out all the shims and started reducing the carrier. It stoped leaking at the one dot, no line carrier. Now on the squeegie test, I went from 0 to 5 shims, and it still would not reset. When I push the bolt back with my finger, it seems a bit tougher to reset than a mech mag. Anyone have any input on tuning the level 10 in an Emag in M mode?

[kcombs9]

did you switch back to E mode and it stop leaking?...

I see no reason why it should matter which mode it is in to effect the lvl 10... the selector switch doe's Nothing to the bolt its all in the trigger.

so to answer your question you tune a lvl 10 on a emag just like you tune it for any other mag E/M/Hybrid mode makes no difference

[DamianTC]

you can't tune a level 10 on a emag in E mode.

My emag shots perfect in E mode, but once I put it in mech, you can clearly see the level 10 isn't tuned correctly.

It didn't leak right away actually. Once I put it in mech and fired a few shots, then it started leaking

[Smoothice]

odd. Like kcomb said the switch should have nothing to do with the level 10. Weird. And now that it leaks if you go back to emode does the leak stop?

[kcombs9]

the bolt functions exactly the same in E mode and M mode. when you flip the switch the only thing that changes is your trigger pull so you can hit the sear rod cause your not using the hall to trip the plunger.

In either setting the sear fires the bolt in exactly the same way.

I think its just coincidence it started leaking when you switched to M mode.

[secretweaponevan]

the bolt functions exactly the same in E mode and M mode. when you flip the switch the only thing that changes is your trigger pull so you can hit the sear rod cause your not using the hall to trip the plunger.

In either setting the sear fires the bolt in exactly the same way.

I think its just coincidence it started leaking when you switched to M mode.

Should be the same.

Try a longer bolt spring if yours is worn out.

All else fails, start breaking in a new carrier o-ring and tuning from scratch.

[chafnerjr]

I'm not emag guy (I don't own one and have only played on one once), but isn't it possible for there to be a trigger pin length issue on the sear (help me out with the definition here). in Mech mode the "trigger rod" portion of the sear that extends to the back of the trigger may be a slight bit short. Wouldn't this in essence short stroke the on/off??? Am i explaining myself correctly here or am I full of hot air...

I guess what I am trying to say is "Is it possible that this isn't a lvl10 issue?"

[Smoothice]

"Is it possible that this isn't a lvl10 issue?"

Exactly. Something else may be causing this. But I don't see how it could be the level 10.

[DamianTC]

I always shot my emag in E mode for the 6 months I had it. I got it brand new from tuna. The setup I always shot in the level 10 was the biggest carrier, 3 shims, and the smallest spring.

I fired about 5 cases worth of paint through the emag in E mode with no problems. Yesterday, I put it in true Mech mode and it fired fine. I probably fired 50 shots out of it and I noticed the power tube leaking. I held the trigger down, no leak. I also noticed at this point the bolt wouldn't reset on a squeegie test.

So, the first thing I did was reduce the carrier. I dropped one size and I still had a slight leak. so I went down again to "one dot, no line" and that stopped the leak. Now I started working on getting the bolt to retest on a squeegie test. I started with 0 shims and all the way up to 5 shims with the same result. It will not reset on a squeegie test.

I need to have my max velocity at 280. I usually keep it at 275-280. So I use the smallest spring.

[kcombs9]

go with no shims and go back up a carrier size sounds like you got too much stick on the bolt. Or go up a spring size, I use the middle spring with 2 shims and smallest carrier and works fine at 280fps

[athomas]

You should be able to get it to work without any shims installed at all. Shims are only used if the bolt barely moves, doesn't release air and then won't reset. If it chuffs and won't reset, then that is bolt stick, not a shim related issue. The shims allow it to release air sooner in its forward movement.

Check for a bad carrier oring. It could cause you to use a carrier that is too tight, which would cause bolt stick.

[dark blade]

i had the exact same problem with my emag yesterday. I had the 1.5 carrier in mine (as with all of my valves) and 2 shims (also with all of my valves) and none of them ever leak. However, yesterday i decided to get adventurous and put the smallest spring on and rechrono. With this setup i got a massive amount of bolt stick and the bolt would not reset after chuffing. I could dry fire fine though.

Then i put the longest spring in, brought it up 1 carrier size to try to fix the bolt stick and the marker just started venting out the back HARDCORE when shooting at 280. And would not have enough pressure to fire when the velocity was lower than that.

I then put back in the red one with the larger carrier and found out that it leaked at that point so the 1.5 was the largest i could use (which i now remember why i use it in all of my valves :)).




moral of the story is... red spring, at 280, with 2 shims, and a 1.5 carrier, at 1100input psi = true bliss on emags in all modes :)

the gold spring for some reason just never gave me any luck on an emag. and you wouldnt happen to be using a fireblade would you? because i am, and i would think it ironic if you were too